Birdoswald Roman Fort

Early walk along the wall from Birdoswald

Birdoswald ruins

It was sunny at 7.00 but rain was forecast for 11.00 so we made an early get away after breakfast. Actually we were delayed by Van-Man filling with diesel in Haltwhistle but after that we headed to Birdoswald Roman Fort crossing from Northumberland into Cumbria on our way. We parked at 9.30 and wandered to the visitor centre which of course did not open until 10.00.

thick walls, small rooms

extensive fort remains

As we reached the entrance it started raining lightly but Lottie needed a walk so we carried on along the Hadrian’s Wall walk which stretches uninterrupted for 75 miles. She had a good run in the long grass in the nearby meadow. It stopped raining as we entered Birdoswald but started again when we were furthest from shelter. At least we had our waterproofs; another couple were caught out wearing only tee-shirts in the sudden cloud burst. After making our way back to the cafe our Lurcher turned her nose up at the cafe so we returned to the van to have coffee there.

Pike Hill Signal Tower

Sally-Van parked on the Banks East Turret 

The rain grew heavier so we decided to stay put and have an early lunch. Fortunately by the time we had eaten the weather was much improved so we set off towards Lannercost Priory taking in isolated parts of the wall on the way.

A handy car park appeared between two smaller pieces of the wall. We parked as the sun came out and walked up the hill to Pike Hill signal tower, taking in the views of the Pennines and Lake District at the tower ruins. The Banks East Turret was even closer to Sally-Van but further along the road.

The Pennines

inside the Priory

Then we carried on to Lannercost Priory which was destroyed by Henry and given to a lord to have as his house. The main nave of the Abbey survived and is still being used as the parish church.

While reading one of the information boards we found out that there was a church linked to St Cuthbert standing beside the ruins of Bews Castle.

 Lannercost Priory

Tombs in the Priory

On leaving the English Heritage shop we sampled some Elderberry Port and Van-Man promptly bought some. Well it is good to support our heritage isn’t it? It was 2.00 when we got back in Sally-Van so Van-Man decided to go and find Bews Castle.

Lottie at  Lannercost Priory

He checked the map and set off along white roads that I would not have dared to suggest for him to use. We drove up and over the moors of Cumbria with breathtaking views and sheep roaming the roads randomly. Most sheep seemed keen to keep out of our way and left the road before we got too close. We found Bews Castle in the middle of nowhere. The hamlet consisted of a farm, church, manor house, museum and ruined castle but a parking place waited beside the church.

We viewed the church both inside and out then went around the museum which contained local artefacts. Then we looked around the cemetery for the ancient cross. I didn’t recognise it at first but the carvings on a tall obelisk were the same as on the picture of the cross in the museum. On closer inspection the arms of the cross had broken off.

We headed towards the ruins of Bews Castle but had to go through the farm to see it closely. However the local Ewes thought Lottie should stay away from their lambs

 Two matriarchs slowly approached so we retreated to the church yard and looked at the ruins from there before getting back in Sally-Van. Even Lottie seemed to realise that the sheep where in charge around there and retreated meekly without woofing.

In the field around the castle were llamas and horses grazing and so we didn’t try to go back. The only other people we saw at Bews Castle were two men in a car who pulled up at the church as we left.

Bews Castle Church

We got back to the camp site at 16.00 and Van-Man immediately washed the mud and manure off the wheel arches and front doors of Sally-Van as the roads around Bews Castle had been caked in the stuff.

The ancient cross

Over dinner Van-Man admitted that he had enjoyed driving along the narrow roads and finding such remote places as there were so few cars around compared to the south east.

After a quiet evening we retired expecting peaceful sleep. However I was woken by a helicopter hovering overhead, shining a spotlight across the campsite. It seemed to hover above us for ages searching the river. I could hear people talking as our window was open. I talked to Van-Man about what was going on but he didn’t wake up. Eventually the helicopter departed, someone said “it’s no trouble,” and the camp site was dark and quiet again.

Bews Castle

Haltwhistle

Our pitch under the pine tree

 

View from the van

As we were heading up to Hadrian’s Wall we cheated by visiting my Mum for an overnight stop. It was lovely to catch up with her and it got the first 2 hours and 50 minutes around the notorious M25 out of the way.

The river by us

After a good night’s sleep Van-Man gave Lottie a short walk through the woods and then we had breakfast with Mum. Thankfully she is an early riser so after a good chat we got away at about 9.20. it was warm and sunny as we drove back to the A1 which passes fairly close to Mum’s and found the traffic moving far better than at home at that time of day.

An accident held us up at Leeming Bar but we passed it after 20 minutes of queuing. The A1 was good to travel on. Parts of it were motorway but all of it was dual carriageway so slower traffic was not a problem. Mind you as we cruise at 65 when there are no speed restrictions most vehicles pass us. As we passed Hexham it rained briefly but not as bad as the forecast had predicted.

Lottie on the dog walk

There were no holdups around Newcastle where the Angel of the North appeared suddenly as we rounded a corner. The A69 from there to Haltwhistle was a good road getting us to the camp site at 3.15 which was swifter than we had expected.

Van-Man chose a pitch alongside the river out of the three available. It was level and gave a lovely view but a large pine tree bearing giant pine cones overhung the van. Some cones were scattered on the ground. “I’m not sure if this is a good idea,” Van-Man said.

The South Tyne River

Lottie took Van-Man to explore the dog walk by the river while I put the kettle on and put the sofas down. We travel with them up in case Lottie attacks them. She was allowed on the sofa in the boat but we are trying to keep her off these as they double as our bed.

Sally Van from the river bank

After our hot drink we took Lottie for a longer walk around the woods which are part of the Bellinger Estate owned by the National trust. We avoided the long walk to Haltwhistle as it climbed steeply up the hill. We found the river and Lottie went in for a cooling dip but looked put out by the boulders that made up the river bed. She seemed happy with the one short evening walk today expecting an expedition tomorrow.

walking through the woods by the camp site

home again

After a short visit to our daughter’s we set off for the long drive home in bad weather as a storm was moving in from the west.

“We can probably beat the worst of the weather if we leave now,” Van-Man said at 10.30. He got the van through the fiddly roads for the first ten minutes and I took over at Victoria hoping that the wind would not get too blustery. The rain was not too heavy so did not slow us up. I overtook a lorry at Bodmin and then got stuck in the outside lane which was being coned off for road works. I could not get back over as nobody would let me in so I drove in that lane until it closed leaving the lorry on the inside lane far behind. It was much quicker so thanks people for not letting me regain the inside lane.

Nearly home

I handed over the driving in a lay-by just before Exeter and Van-Man took us to Cartgate picnic centre for lunch where there is suitable parking for the larger vehicle. Fortunately the rain stopped while we were there so Lottie could have a leisurely stroll around.

As this was a short drive to Cartgate Van-Man carried on after lunch. Going past Stonehenge was slow but it is always lovely to see it. We swapped drivers while stationary in the queue, an advantage of being able to move around inside the van. Lottie was disappointed not to visit Woodhenge but it was raining again around there.

I drove to the M3 interchange with the M25 where the traffic halted again so we swapped over drivers. Due to the extra traffic problems it was 18.00 before we got home.

Kestrel Monopoly

Deserted Watergate Bay

High Tide

After a windy night we set off for Chelle’s not expecting to go out. We arrived just after 10.30. After lunch we settled down to a long game of Monopoly as it remained wet and windy. Lottie soon demanded a walk so Van-Man walked her along the local roads. He returned and continued with the game as we had played his hand while he was out. It was a big mistake, Van-Man won.
By late afternoon the sun was breaking through. Van-Man nipped out with Chelle to buy fish and chips which everyone enjoyed. We left soon after eating so we could walk the Lurcher.

calm sea

I thought Van-Man might head for somewhere different but he went back to Watergate, parked up for the night and then we took Lottie onto the coast path above Watergate Bay. We had an hour before dusk and Lottie made the most of it. When she was younger she would have demanded to go out in the middle of the rain. Thankfully she is more relaxed now.
Newquay appeared to be in stormy weather while we hung onto some sunshine.

cliff edge

Kestrel soaring...

Though it was the same walk there is always something to enjoy. This time it was a pair of kestrels hunting along the cliffs. They were unfazed by our presence and swooped and dived past us. Lottie enjoyed her evening walk and sniffed around happily while the kestrels held us spellbound. Van-Man tried his best to capture them in action but they were too fast when they passed us so he only got distant shots. We walked back as the sun set, swallowed up by a bank of thick cloud.

...and swooping

Wheal Peevor mine

wild location

tall chimneys

superb views

Steps up

and more steps

We set off for our daughter’s house in uncertain weather. By the time we had decided where we were going the wind had abated and sunshine had arrived. Chelle had researched the area and found a Historic Cornwall site near Redruth. Wheal Peevor mine appeared to be off the tourist’s radar as the tiny car park could only take about six cars yet we were both able to park.

I'm going this way

paths from one place...

...to another

There was no toilet on site but three of the children queued to use the one in our van The free car park gave access to a large site with paths linking the various mine buildings and several boards explaining what each place had been used for. 

sturdy foundations

It appeared that dog walkers used it but apart from meeting a couple of well behaved dogs we had the place to ourselves.

Everyone enjoyed exploring the site. Lottie gave up trying to keep the herd together as they separated down different paths. Instead she chose her path and shot ahead of the children on it. 

deep arches

what's in here?

one, two, three

window for piston arm

where's the way in?

 Nobody got lost, though cries of ‘how did you get over there’ or ‘I’m up here,’ rang out from time to time. The site was covered in gorse and heather but the paths were well maintained. One building had steps up leading inside. Soon the children were lined up looking out over a big drop but rails protected them from falling.

Lottie surveying the situation

joined by the children

When we settled down by a mine building with a tall chimney the children had worked up an appetite. Lottie lay down quietly while we ate then went into Hoover mode and sucked up any interesting crumbs left behind.

We spent nearly 4 hours and only met a handful of people but on the way back

The children dropped pebbles down a deep shaft and waited holding their breath for the clink at the bottom. “That is really deep!” Melody decided and her elder sister agreed.

The older children spotted yet another mine building nearby and set off to find it with all but their father with the youngest in the buggy following.




The path didn’t lead to the mine but gave splendid views across the whole site.

peaceful chimneys

On the way back to the cars we passed the quarry from which a lot of the stone had come from and a small cob and miniature pony was led past us to the delight of everyone.

On the drive back to Chelle’s it rained, so we had timed our day out perfectly. Chelle rustled up a delicious Bolognaise and we left for the camp site at 7.00 for a quiet evening. Both Van-Man and Lottie settled into comfy positions and had a sleep before supper.

Mawgan Porth

flowers and sand

It was a misty morning with Cornish mizzle which makes you damp rather than wet. Van-Man was puzzled when the Change Engine oil message did not appear, but drove to our daughters. He went to church with them leaving me and the large Lurcher to guard the house. Lottie can’t be left alone as she can open doors and would probably try out every bed in the house and run off with shoes or toys. Lottie was well behaved and slept on her bed all morning after eyeing up the sofa which I protected by putting the washing basket and a box on it. She was restless at 1.30 as if expecting the family to return and waited at the window looking out.

The church was lively with a relaxed cafe style seating, and Van-Man got to meet a few old friends. Next time it will be my turn to go. We had a late lunch when they returned and left just before to walk Lottie as the mizzle finally stopped.

Between Mawgan Porth and Watergate Bay

We went back to the camp site and walked the coast path towards Mawgan Porth the whole walk took just over an hour. Lottie was keen to go in this direction as she had never walked it before and trotted ahead of us. We were overtaken by a jogger in vivid yellow who we think ran all the way to Mawgan Porth. This part of the coast path is up and down and the surface varies from solid rock to loose rock and scree on the hillside. It was hard enough walking on the uneven surface let alone run. If I tried that I would probably tumble over and injure myself. We met another jogger who also seemed impervious to the loose stones as he ran and skidded down the steep descent.

floral cliff edge

There were lovely displays of flowers on the cliffs, stone walls and beside the paths. At one point the path dropped steeply into a gully with a stream in the bottom of it. Lottie seemed to be following a scent at this point. On the way back she paddled in the stream and had a drink. Then she charged up the steep slope and waited at the top as if to say ‘can't you go any faster?’

perfect blooms

She then rolled in the springy grass to towel herself down.

As we approached the road the jogger in vivid yellow passed behind us, still steaming along. I’d rather walk and take in the view slowly.

We went back to the site and had a quiet evening. With a large family times of quiet are important.