Birdoswald Roman Fort

Early walk along the wall from Birdoswald

Birdoswald ruins

It was sunny at 7.00 but rain was forecast for 11.00 so we made an early get away after breakfast. Actually we were delayed by Van-Man filling with diesel in Haltwhistle but after that we headed to Birdoswald Roman Fort crossing from Northumberland into Cumbria on our way. We parked at 9.30 and wandered to the visitor centre which of course did not open until 10.00.

thick walls, small rooms

extensive fort remains

As we reached the entrance it started raining lightly but Lottie needed a walk so we carried on along the Hadrian’s Wall walk which stretches uninterrupted for 75 miles. She had a good run in the long grass in the nearby meadow. It stopped raining as we entered Birdoswald but started again when we were furthest from shelter. At least we had our waterproofs; another couple were caught out wearing only tee-shirts in the sudden cloud burst. After making our way back to the cafe our Lurcher turned her nose up at the cafe so we returned to the van to have coffee there.

Pike Hill Signal Tower

Sally-Van parked on the Banks East Turret 

The rain grew heavier so we decided to stay put and have an early lunch. Fortunately by the time we had eaten the weather was much improved so we set off towards Lannercost Priory taking in isolated parts of the wall on the way.

A handy car park appeared between two smaller pieces of the wall. We parked as the sun came out and walked up the hill to Pike Hill signal tower, taking in the views of the Pennines and Lake District at the tower ruins. The Banks East Turret was even closer to Sally-Van but further along the road.

The Pennines

inside the Priory

Then we carried on to Lannercost Priory which was destroyed by Henry and given to a lord to have as his house. The main nave of the Abbey survived and is still being used as the parish church.

While reading one of the information boards we found out that there was a church linked to St Cuthbert standing beside the ruins of Bews Castle.

 Lannercost Priory

Tombs in the Priory

On leaving the English Heritage shop we sampled some Elderberry Port and Van-Man promptly bought some. Well it is good to support our heritage isn’t it? It was 2.00 when we got back in Sally-Van so Van-Man decided to go and find Bews Castle.

Lottie at  Lannercost Priory

He checked the map and set off along white roads that I would not have dared to suggest for him to use. We drove up and over the moors of Cumbria with breathtaking views and sheep roaming the roads randomly. Most sheep seemed keen to keep out of our way and left the road before we got too close. We found Bews Castle in the middle of nowhere. The hamlet consisted of a farm, church, manor house, museum and ruined castle but a parking place waited beside the church.

We viewed the church both inside and out then went around the museum which contained local artefacts. Then we looked around the cemetery for the ancient cross. I didn’t recognise it at first but the carvings on a tall obelisk were the same as on the picture of the cross in the museum. On closer inspection the arms of the cross had broken off.

We headed towards the ruins of Bews Castle but had to go through the farm to see it closely. However the local Ewes thought Lottie should stay away from their lambs

 Two matriarchs slowly approached so we retreated to the church yard and looked at the ruins from there before getting back in Sally-Van. Even Lottie seemed to realise that the sheep where in charge around there and retreated meekly without woofing.

In the field around the castle were llamas and horses grazing and so we didn’t try to go back. The only other people we saw at Bews Castle were two men in a car who pulled up at the church as we left.

Bews Castle Church

We got back to the camp site at 16.00 and Van-Man immediately washed the mud and manure off the wheel arches and front doors of Sally-Van as the roads around Bews Castle had been caked in the stuff.

The ancient cross

Over dinner Van-Man admitted that he had enjoyed driving along the narrow roads and finding such remote places as there were so few cars around compared to the south east.

After a quiet evening we retired expecting peaceful sleep. However I was woken by a helicopter hovering overhead, shining a spotlight across the campsite. It seemed to hover above us for ages searching the river. I could hear people talking as our window was open. I talked to Van-Man about what was going on but he didn’t wake up. Eventually the helicopter departed, someone said “it’s no trouble,” and the camp site was dark and quiet again.

Bews Castle