The less trodden path

First Milecastle on the walk

Substantial Wall remains...

It was raining at 7.00 so we didn’t rush to get moving. Lottie went out for her first toilet trip in a short rain break. By 10.30 it was brighter towards Birdoswald Roman Fort so we set off in that direction to look at Hadrian’s Wall between Birdoswald and Gilsland.

Hadrian’s Wall was well signposted and there was a free car park near the wall where Sally-Van was parked backing on to the grass verge which lets Lottie lie on the grass next to the habitation door.

...and foundations

Another Milecastle

We walked towards Birdoswald Roman Fort following an intact lower wall apart from where it had tumbled into the river Irvin. We stopped to look at two turrets before reaching the extensive roman bridge remains which were quite a distance from the river with no sign of where the river once flowed. They were confusing as the first bridge had been swept away and replaced by a heavier one which had flood holes for when the river was in flood.

Down to the river

Roman bridge remains

We walked through a grassy meadow and crossed the modern bridge after Lottie had dipped her front paws in the shallows and had a drink. The river was flowing swiftly, pounding over the rocky outcrops which made up its bed so she didn’t venture right in.

but the river is by the trees

too frothy for a Lucher's liking

There was a steep climb to the last structure before Birdoswald Roman Fort. Of course the sun came out and baked us as we trekked up the hill laden with waterproofs and drinks. It was worth the climb for both the view and the roman remains. At this last ruin we finally came across another couple viewing the ruins.

Ruins on top of the hill

on the way back down

The Allen, a calmer river

We retraced our steps and Lottie found a calmer place to paddle in the fast flowing river. Even then the current was tugging at her legs. We picked up pace as dark clouds were piling up passing a couple strolling slowly.

I’ve been bitten,” Van-Man exclaimed killing a horse fly. A minute later he was bitten again. Normally he gets off without a nibble while I get bitten alive.

We reached Sally-Van, put the kettle on and prepared lunch. Lottie lay on the grass by the habitation door but was pestered by flies. I dug out the oil of citronella and Van-Man patted a few drops on Lottie. The flies disappeared and she lay back gratefully until the clouds burst when she decided to join us in Sally-Van.

with a sandy shore

Are you coming?

Going up the gorge

The rain lasted quite a while but we were in no hurry. After lunch we headed to a supermarket to get food then drove along the northern edge of the Pennines. When we reached the bridge over the River Allen we were able to park and we walked the path along the river towards AllenBanks. It petered out obviously one of the paths that had been swept away by the floods. We backtracked and took a higher path signed footpath but instead of going along the gorge it climbed higher and higher to the top.

It wasn’t bad to begin with but it got steeper and slippery.
At the top the path followed the top of the gorge through farm fields but it was very overgrown. I waited while Van-Man checked it out but he returned shaking his head.

“Very overgrown,” he said.

above the gorge

coming down

one last dip

As we started to descend we saw another path going along the gorge to AllenBanks but as it dropped down steeply we chose not to follow it. I found a sturdy stick to help me balance and I descended slowly without slipping, unlike Van-Man. Lottie enjoyed this walk, particularly her final dip in the river after descending the gorge. She was keen t go further but after an hour’s walk we felt it was time to return to the camp site.

the 'paved' river bed from the bridge

Before driving away we went onto the bridge to look at the river as the bed rock structure could be clearly seen through the water. It appeared as if it bed had been paved with carefully fitted slabs.

Allen Banks and Stalwart Gorge

Allen Banks

First dip of the day

Van-Man was philosophical when Lottie demanded her early toilet trip at 6.50.

“Rain’s due at 11.00 increasing to severe at mid day,” he said as I struggled to open my eyes. “It’s good to get up early.”
At the toilets at 7.00 a camper told me that the helicopter and a police dog handler were searching for one of the campers.

Wild Violas

 Apparently she had taken the dog out at 11.00, got disoriented and didn’t come back. Her husband woke up and got the search team out worried for her safety. However it all ended happily as the dog handler found her sitting in the woods with her pooch. That wouldn’t happen with Lottie, she would drag me straight back to the van as she always knows her way in strange places. 

Cawfields Quarry Lake

starting to climb gently

This is the first time we have had our kip interrupted by a police search and hopefully the last. Over breakfast we decided to head for Allen Banks and Stalwart Gorge to have a long walk in case the afternoon was soggy so Lottie would settle down well. We set off at 8.30 and parked at Allen Banks twenty minutes later. The sign informed us that the suspension bridge and some of the lower paths had been swept away but set out on a well maintained path. 

Steeper ups and downs

Lottie wall walking

Great views

We took a narrow path down to the river so Lottie could have a drink and cool off but the lower path soon fizzled out so we returned to the upper one. The path twisted and turned through trees along the bank of the river, sometimes climbing quite high above it and Lottie led the way eagerly. At last we reached the bridge at Plankley Mill where we saw our first walker, a man walking a spaniel.After a quick debate about whether to cross the bridge, in case the path on the far side had been washed away by floods, we decided to risk it. A lady walking a Staffie on a lead soon caught up and overtook us. Soon she disappeared in the trees. The path was good and led us past the site of the suspension bridge high above the water. After that the path lost height and ran through lovely waterside meadows. Back at the road we were able to cross the bridge and returned to our Sally-Van just as the rain should have started. The weather was still sunny.

How far should we go?

Heading back to the lake

We had a hot drink followed by lunch and as the weather was still fine we decided to drive to Steel Rig and walk the highest part of Hadrian’s Wall. We found the car park but it was full, clearly the walk was popular. “We’ll come back another day,” Van-Man decided and drove to Cawfields as the nearest place along the wall.

The north side of the wall

Quarry edge

That car park was large and almost empty. We found the quarry had destroyed part of the wall but it was a charming location. After Lottie had sampled the water and had a quick dip we set off to find Cawfields Milecastle which was also remote and perched high above the valley.
We strolled along the wall gradually climbing for an hour with excellent views over the moors. 

Poltross Burn Milecastle 

Lake and distant wall from Car park

Cawfields Milecastle was close to the start of our walk so we looked around it and carried on. Lottie was off the lead most of the time as the cattle and sheep were grazing far away. 

Our return was swifter and the wind picked up but Lottie still had a cooling dip in the quarry lake.

Lottie looking around

all the rooms are here

Van-Man wanted to walk through a field of cows to photograph the north side of the ridge we had been walking on. The cows looked suspiciously at us and Lottie barked so he left me and our protesting Lurcher and carried on alone along the farmers track while I slowly returned to Sally-Van.

“Where’s the rain?” I teased as He always studied the weather forecast before deciding what to do. Van-Man shrugged.

“It’s too early to turn back. Let’s drive to Poltross Burn Milecastle at Gilsland. It’s not far out of our way back to camp.”

“It’s meant to be the best Milecastle left,” I agreed.

Van-Man found the parking for the Milecastle easily in what was once the railway station yard. It took less than ten minutes to walk to Poltross Burn Milecastle while the clouds built up.

the tallest part of the wall at Poltross Burn

By the time we had looked around and walked back to Sally-Van the rain had started.It rained heavily for the rest of the day until late evening but we were happy to rest up. I just hope it isn’t too stormy tonight as the large Lurcher turns into a panting trembling chicken.

Birdoswald Roman Fort

Early walk along the wall from Birdoswald

Birdoswald ruins

It was sunny at 7.00 but rain was forecast for 11.00 so we made an early get away after breakfast. Actually we were delayed by Van-Man filling with diesel in Haltwhistle but after that we headed to Birdoswald Roman Fort crossing from Northumberland into Cumbria on our way. We parked at 9.30 and wandered to the visitor centre which of course did not open until 10.00.

thick walls, small rooms

extensive fort remains

As we reached the entrance it started raining lightly but Lottie needed a walk so we carried on along the Hadrian’s Wall walk which stretches uninterrupted for 75 miles. She had a good run in the long grass in the nearby meadow. It stopped raining as we entered Birdoswald but started again when we were furthest from shelter. At least we had our waterproofs; another couple were caught out wearing only tee-shirts in the sudden cloud burst. After making our way back to the cafe our Lurcher turned her nose up at the cafe so we returned to the van to have coffee there.

Pike Hill Signal Tower

Sally-Van parked on the Banks East Turret 

The rain grew heavier so we decided to stay put and have an early lunch. Fortunately by the time we had eaten the weather was much improved so we set off towards Lannercost Priory taking in isolated parts of the wall on the way.

A handy car park appeared between two smaller pieces of the wall. We parked as the sun came out and walked up the hill to Pike Hill signal tower, taking in the views of the Pennines and Lake District at the tower ruins. The Banks East Turret was even closer to Sally-Van but further along the road.

The Pennines

inside the Priory

Then we carried on to Lannercost Priory which was destroyed by Henry and given to a lord to have as his house. The main nave of the Abbey survived and is still being used as the parish church.

While reading one of the information boards we found out that there was a church linked to St Cuthbert standing beside the ruins of Bews Castle.

 Lannercost Priory

Tombs in the Priory

On leaving the English Heritage shop we sampled some Elderberry Port and Van-Man promptly bought some. Well it is good to support our heritage isn’t it? It was 2.00 when we got back in Sally-Van so Van-Man decided to go and find Bews Castle.

Lottie at  Lannercost Priory

He checked the map and set off along white roads that I would not have dared to suggest for him to use. We drove up and over the moors of Cumbria with breathtaking views and sheep roaming the roads randomly. Most sheep seemed keen to keep out of our way and left the road before we got too close. We found Bews Castle in the middle of nowhere. The hamlet consisted of a farm, church, manor house, museum and ruined castle but a parking place waited beside the church.

We viewed the church both inside and out then went around the museum which contained local artefacts. Then we looked around the cemetery for the ancient cross. I didn’t recognise it at first but the carvings on a tall obelisk were the same as on the picture of the cross in the museum. On closer inspection the arms of the cross had broken off.

We headed towards the ruins of Bews Castle but had to go through the farm to see it closely. However the local Ewes thought Lottie should stay away from their lambs

 Two matriarchs slowly approached so we retreated to the church yard and looked at the ruins from there before getting back in Sally-Van. Even Lottie seemed to realise that the sheep where in charge around there and retreated meekly without woofing.

In the field around the castle were llamas and horses grazing and so we didn’t try to go back. The only other people we saw at Bews Castle were two men in a car who pulled up at the church as we left.

Bews Castle Church

We got back to the camp site at 16.00 and Van-Man immediately washed the mud and manure off the wheel arches and front doors of Sally-Van as the roads around Bews Castle had been caked in the stuff.

The ancient cross

Over dinner Van-Man admitted that he had enjoyed driving along the narrow roads and finding such remote places as there were so few cars around compared to the south east.

After a quiet evening we retired expecting peaceful sleep. However I was woken by a helicopter hovering overhead, shining a spotlight across the campsite. It seemed to hover above us for ages searching the river. I could hear people talking as our window was open. I talked to Van-Man about what was going on but he didn’t wake up. Eventually the helicopter departed, someone said “it’s no trouble,” and the camp site was dark and quiet again.

Bews Castle