intrepid pony: Goodbye Leeds and Liverpool Canal

Wigan Pier

Our fridge started flashing at 8.05. last time this happened was four years ago when the leisure batteries suddenly died a few days later. The Captain ran the engine while we had breakfast and the light stopped flashing almost immediately.

Urban towpath

After breakfast we cruised into Crooke and was surprised by all the spaces, but a skipper preparing to move off told us the village had been packed full – and they were all heading in our direction. His boat pulled out and followed us to the first lock where two boats were ascending. They scarpered into the distance leaving us lock wives to close up. Perhaps they didn’t feel strong enough to help us.

Flash (lake) left from old mine workings

It was much easier and quicker locking with another boat but they were stopping after three locks if they could moor in the secure gated site in Wigan. Talk about lucky – it was full (there was only room for two long boats) but one skipper indicated he was about to move off.

We ascended the next lock on our own but the Wigan flight keeper came by and helped the Captain. The following lock was after the junction but the boats ahead were still locking down as we arrived. I’m not surprised – they were very leaky.

Crane holding stop planks

By the time they had left another boat came up behind us. Their skipper and lock slave of Blue Dragonfly were amazingly lively considering they had spent several hours locking down the lower half of the 21 flight. They informed us that the locks were heavy and in poor condition but that they were going to be worked on next year.

“We will try them after the improvements,” the Captain decided.

old chimney

Blue Dragonfly led the way out of the final lock on the Leeds and Liverpool canal. Within minutes they were out of sight.

“We are averaging 3 lock miles per hour,” the Captain said. “Yet we seem to be the slowest boat on the canal.”

Naturally we were alone for Plank lane swing bridge which contrary to its name lifts! I operated it with more confidence but the queue still stretched round the corner in each direction. What power a small key has!

We were struck by the sign posts on the tow path which gave times for cyclists instead of the usual distances. We moored up in Leigh to go shopping for food behind a broad beam. The other side of it was Blue Dragonfly. From its deserted appearance the crew had also gone into town.

Budlia and water lilies

After shopping it drizzled for a while delaying our departure but at 4.20 the Captain set off to find a quieter mooring more to Lottie’s liking. I walked her out of town until I saw several drunks slumped on a canal bench ahead. Although they were unlikely to accost me I chickened out and rejoined the boat. They called out to us merrily waving their beer bottles so perhaps I had been wise after all.

leaving Leigh

cycle signs

The water grew clear as we headed towards Astley Pit museum whose mine buildings added interest to the skyline. Soon we could see fish darting along the bottom. Along the far side the water lilies made a fabulous display. Strangely in one place there was a single large white water lily surrounded by hundreds of yellow ones.

We moored up outside Worsley in exactly the same spot as we had on the way out but this time another boat was moored further along the straight.