Cruising through the swimming pool



straight banks and clear water

We woke to bird song and clear blue skies. When I walked Lottie while the Captain prepared the boat the water was so clear I could see fish darting through the weed. The bottom was clear of rubbish, apart from an empty crisp packet which looked like new laying neatly on the bottom of the canal. At the bridge however plastic and bricks had been flung from the bridge. Four tyres lay beyond the bridge   forming an almost complete Olympic logo. Is this what we cruise over in muddy waters? Yes and more. When canals have been cleaned shopping trolleys, push bikes, old prams and motorbikes have all been found!

water lilies everywhere

It was a lovely cruise to Leigh where the captain replenished the supplies. As chief dog sitter I walked and met him outside the store to help carry the shopping back as Lottie gets stressed waiting outside.

After lunch we resumed our cruise not realising it would be 5 ½ hours before we could moor up! Once back on CaRT waterways we could see they were not so well maintained as the Bridgewater which is owned and managed by the Manchester Ship Canal. The shallower water meant we cruised slower.

magnificent old factory

My first challenge after the Bridgewater canal turned into the Leeds and Liverpool canal was to operate the Plank Lane swing bridge. As we approached I realised it was a very busy road – surely random boaters like me would not be allowed to disrupt the steady flow of traffic!

I opened to operating box and found my first problem – the brilliant sunshine made it difficult to read the on screen instructions. After squinting at the faint print I waited for a gap in the traffic and timidly pressed the green button.

safe moorings

Traffic lights stopped the traffic but I couldn’t see how to lower the barriers so there was a slight delay while I read the instructions. At last the barriers lowered and the bridge slowly opened while the traffic queued. By the time the boat passed through the traffic stretched round the corner.

Plank lane swing bridge (which contrary to its name lifts)

Help! As soon as our boat was clear I pressed the closed button but bridges are not to be rushed. The screen told me the bridge was locked in place then asked me to check the barriers were clear before they would rise. I counted the cars as they flowed onto the bridge. After 20 cars passed the lights changed leaving a long queue to let the traffic flow from the other direction. This time I lost count but a bus filled with passengers bounced over the narrow bridge.

Geese enjoying the Flashes

When we reached the first lock I jumped off the boat to work the lock and stood puzzled wondering how to work it. It had chains attached to the balance beam and a handle to wind it open but I couldn’t see how to disable the anti vandal lock. This was because the device was broken perhaps by vandals? In the end I lowered the water level but when I came to fill the lock (with our boat seeming small in its vast belly) I again had trouble as the ground paddles didn’t work.  
Timidly I filled with gate paddles (which shouldn’t be used until the lock is half full) but the flow was sluggish and didn’t send the boat bouncing round the lock. The massive gates were too heavy for me (no chain assist on the top gate) so the Captain had to come and help.

Henhurst Lock

Slightly deflated we went on to lock 2 round the corner. If anything this lock was harder to open than its predecessor but the captain helped me open it before fetching the boat. Strangely I managed to close the gate alone. . Muscles aching I went to work the paddles while the Captain floated around. I wound up the first paddle easily – but the water level didn’t change. Fortunately the second ground paddle worked as there were no gate paddles. The boat crept upward slowly.

looking back at Henhurst lock

“We’re not doing 21 locks if they’re all like these,” the Captain muttered. “We’re heading for Liverpool.” At the junction we headed left straight up to the next lock where a boat was entering from below. I went forward again and noticed this lock had another interesting way of helping boater open lock gates. Because the bridge was so close the bottom gates had a windlass that operated a rack and pinion to move the gates with ease.

The amazing Wigan Pier

The boater coming up worked the lock alone with one crew member sitting comfortably in the bow and the other holding a tiny dog on the lead. He helped the dog and lady back onto the boat then leap aboard cheerily. The lock was easy to operate but the Captain struggled with the next one.

He recovered in time to grasp his camera as we approached the restored Wigan Pier.

“Is that it?” he asked. Indeed it was merely a pretty landing stage, but had become famous because of that book!

old loading bays

As we approached Pagefield Lock we could see clumps of teenagers gathered around the next lock.

The Captain gallantly volunteered to go into battle when he saw boys were leaping off the balance beams into the gloomy water of their swimming pool. Altogether there were over 30 teenagers, mostly boys but some teenage girls were sitting watching the action. I pulled the boat over to the side so that I was only a metre from their grassy perch. Two boys ran over and grabbed their towels as the water started to drain away.

Almost cloudless skies

“Sorry to interrupt your swim,” I said.

“It happens,” he replied laconically.

However other boys were still leaping into the water in front of our boat like desperate lemmings as I eased our steel boat into the lock. they were either foolish or trusted I had full control as I could have mown them down if I hadn't held the boat at the back of the lock.

Graffiti near Pagefield lock

leaving Wigan

“Pass me your key and I’ll help you,” one boy said.

old crane

“I’m fine thank you,” the Captain replied putting his handcuff key deep in his pocket. The language on the band was littered with swear words but they were not aimed towards us - it was simply their normal mode of speech.

The Captain’s would be helper followed him around like a soggy artful dodger.

“Will you refill the lock for us Mister?” he asked.

“I’m not supposed to,” he replied. “We’re meant to save water.” As the boys closed the lower gates the Captain went and filled it again as it was unlikely another boat would come up to do it for them.

“Thanks mate,” the dodger cried and hurtled into the lock.

out in the countryside

The final lock before we moored was filled with floating litter and scum hardly inviting to swim in however hot the weather. Though the paddle gear was easy to work I had to leave the boat to help the Captain close the last lock.

“Thank goodness we’re not going to do 21 of these,” the Captain said as he eased the boat away in search of mooring. Within ten minutes we reached Crooke, a pretty village with a boatyard and a pub.

The Captain moored in the shade and laboured over his log.

“Very heavy locks,” he muttered as Lottie flopped against his legs.