Cruising through the swimming pool



straight banks and clear water

We woke to bird song and clear blue skies. When I walked Lottie while the Captain prepared the boat the water was so clear I could see fish darting through the weed. The bottom was clear of rubbish, apart from an empty crisp packet which looked like new laying neatly on the bottom of the canal. At the bridge however plastic and bricks had been flung from the bridge. Four tyres lay beyond the bridge   forming an almost complete Olympic logo. Is this what we cruise over in muddy waters? Yes and more. When canals have been cleaned shopping trolleys, push bikes, old prams and motorbikes have all been found!

water lilies everywhere

It was a lovely cruise to Leigh where the captain replenished the supplies. As chief dog sitter I walked and met him outside the store to help carry the shopping back as Lottie gets stressed waiting outside.

After lunch we resumed our cruise not realising it would be 5 ½ hours before we could moor up! Once back on CaRT waterways we could see they were not so well maintained as the Bridgewater which is owned and managed by the Manchester Ship Canal. The shallower water meant we cruised slower.

magnificent old factory

My first challenge after the Bridgewater canal turned into the Leeds and Liverpool canal was to operate the Plank Lane swing bridge. As we approached I realised it was a very busy road – surely random boaters like me would not be allowed to disrupt the steady flow of traffic!

I opened to operating box and found my first problem – the brilliant sunshine made it difficult to read the on screen instructions. After squinting at the faint print I waited for a gap in the traffic and timidly pressed the green button.

safe moorings

Traffic lights stopped the traffic but I couldn’t see how to lower the barriers so there was a slight delay while I read the instructions. At last the barriers lowered and the bridge slowly opened while the traffic queued. By the time the boat passed through the traffic stretched round the corner.

Plank lane swing bridge (which contrary to its name lifts)

Help! As soon as our boat was clear I pressed the closed button but bridges are not to be rushed. The screen told me the bridge was locked in place then asked me to check the barriers were clear before they would rise. I counted the cars as they flowed onto the bridge. After 20 cars passed the lights changed leaving a long queue to let the traffic flow from the other direction. This time I lost count but a bus filled with passengers bounced over the narrow bridge.

Geese enjoying the Flashes

When we reached the first lock I jumped off the boat to work the lock and stood puzzled wondering how to work it. It had chains attached to the balance beam and a handle to wind it open but I couldn’t see how to disable the anti vandal lock. This was because the device was broken perhaps by vandals? In the end I lowered the water level but when I came to fill the lock (with our boat seeming small in its vast belly) I again had trouble as the ground paddles didn’t work.  
Timidly I filled with gate paddles (which shouldn’t be used until the lock is half full) but the flow was sluggish and didn’t send the boat bouncing round the lock. The massive gates were too heavy for me (no chain assist on the top gate) so the Captain had to come and help.

Henhurst Lock

Slightly deflated we went on to lock 2 round the corner. If anything this lock was harder to open than its predecessor but the captain helped me open it before fetching the boat. Strangely I managed to close the gate alone. . Muscles aching I went to work the paddles while the Captain floated around. I wound up the first paddle easily – but the water level didn’t change. Fortunately the second ground paddle worked as there were no gate paddles. The boat crept upward slowly.

looking back at Henhurst lock

“We’re not doing 21 locks if they’re all like these,” the Captain muttered. “We’re heading for Liverpool.” At the junction we headed left straight up to the next lock where a boat was entering from below. I went forward again and noticed this lock had another interesting way of helping boater open lock gates. Because the bridge was so close the bottom gates had a windlass that operated a rack and pinion to move the gates with ease.

The amazing Wigan Pier

The boater coming up worked the lock alone with one crew member sitting comfortably in the bow and the other holding a tiny dog on the lead. He helped the dog and lady back onto the boat then leap aboard cheerily. The lock was easy to operate but the Captain struggled with the next one.

He recovered in time to grasp his camera as we approached the restored Wigan Pier.

“Is that it?” he asked. Indeed it was merely a pretty landing stage, but had become famous because of that book!

old loading bays

As we approached Pagefield Lock we could see clumps of teenagers gathered around the next lock.

The Captain gallantly volunteered to go into battle when he saw boys were leaping off the balance beams into the gloomy water of their swimming pool. Altogether there were over 30 teenagers, mostly boys but some teenage girls were sitting watching the action. I pulled the boat over to the side so that I was only a metre from their grassy perch. Two boys ran over and grabbed their towels as the water started to drain away.

Almost cloudless skies

“Sorry to interrupt your swim,” I said.

“It happens,” he replied laconically.

However other boys were still leaping into the water in front of our boat like desperate lemmings as I eased our steel boat into the lock. they were either foolish or trusted I had full control as I could have mown them down if I hadn't held the boat at the back of the lock.

Graffiti near Pagefield lock

leaving Wigan

“Pass me your key and I’ll help you,” one boy said.

old crane

“I’m fine thank you,” the Captain replied putting his handcuff key deep in his pocket. The language on the band was littered with swear words but they were not aimed towards us - it was simply their normal mode of speech.

The Captain’s would be helper followed him around like a soggy artful dodger.

“Will you refill the lock for us Mister?” he asked.

“I’m not supposed to,” he replied. “We’re meant to save water.” As the boys closed the lower gates the Captain went and filled it again as it was unlikely another boat would come up to do it for them.

“Thanks mate,” the dodger cried and hurtled into the lock.

out in the countryside

The final lock before we moored was filled with floating litter and scum hardly inviting to swim in however hot the weather. Though the paddle gear was easy to work I had to leave the boat to help the Captain close the last lock.

“Thank goodness we’re not going to do 21 of these,” the Captain said as he eased the boat away in search of mooring. Within ten minutes we reached Crooke, a pretty village with a boatyard and a pub.

The Captain moored in the shade and laboured over his log.

“Very heavy locks,” he muttered as Lottie flopped against his legs.

The Bridgewater Canal





old Linotype works

Crane holding the stop planks

Lottie woke us at a reasonable hour (after 7.00) and we got cruising early as the weather was warm and sunny. We could cruise faster than on the Trent and Mersey and actually maintained 3 miles an hour with Lottie snoozing between the legs of whoever was steering. Normally she keeps to the other side of our fairly generous rear deck.

Although the canal had pretty views at times it felt impersonal and monotonous compared with most we have cruised. If anything I found this canal lacked personality at this end. The first built up areas were sandwiched between the Bridgewater canal and the Manchester Ship Canal and were interesting. Lymm on the other hand was lovely, full of quirky charm. We decided to stop there and explore on the way home.

Floating Pub seating

We stopped for water but so had two other boats so we had to queue although one boat was trying to fix a malfunctioning toilet. By the time it was our turn two more boats were waiting. I made lunch while the Captain filled the water tank. Afterwards we ate as we cruised.

Lottie's City stroll

On entering Manchester the canal was very straight so it seemed to take ages to cruise as we could see bridges far in the distance. It was also clean for such a large city. The reason for the lack of rubbish soon became clear when I met a boat called the Water Womble.

It was a barge with two large compartments, one was partly filled with branches and greenery pulled from the water and the other held rubbish. As they approached me one of the Womble’s crew scooped some plastic out of the canal and dumped it on top of the rubbish. Every city should have a Womble boat.


Approaching Barton Swing Aqueduct

While I was driving the Captain rang CaRT and they confirmed that the Aston flight was closed for at least two weeks while a new lock gate was built.

Unable to go through Manchester and return via the Macclesfield we decided to cruise part of the Leeds and Liverpool canal. Soon we turned onto the Leigh branch (it is called that because it goes through Leigh) and cruised through the massive Trafford business park.




A neat fit

Though the backdrop was urban it felt as if we were cruising across an ornamental pond as the edges of the canal were lined with flowering water irises and swathes of water lilies in bloom. Dog roses and Buddleia adorning disused factories completed the sense of cruising through a vast garden.

The towpath was razor straight but there were bushes to one side  so I walked Lottie on a quiet section.




A light house - the only one inland?

Barton swing aqueduct was an industrial delight though I had to reload the dog onto the boat swiftly when we realised there was no walk way over it. Who ever thought of swinging a piece of canal through ninety degrees so that tall ships could traverse the Manchester Ship Canal? it was narrow with an excellent view over the Manchester Ship Canal.

interesting architecture

A light house was a bizarre sight as boats on the canal are unlikely to need its light to guide them. 





Worsley was interesting partly because Delph was where the canal began with the mine. The ire ore from the mining stains the water a rusty ochre. The strange water colour seemed to have no effect on the swans and ducks. What surprised me was the deep colour seemed to arrive suddenly and left swiftly, I had expected the water to change colour slowly over a much greater distance. 

entering Worsley

Worsley's Delph junction marked a sharp turn in the canal past beautiful buildings. We swiftly caught a hire boat that ran aground on a tight turn in the town. The crew used their boat pole and punted back into deep water. As they were weaving an erratic course they pulled over to let us by. That was very thoughtful of them but maybe they didn’t want us to see them run aground again. 



Worsley Swans and cygnets

After Worsley the canal was surrounded by reclaimed land from industry now wild meadows with overgrown banks but we found a pleasant place to moor. Lottie liked it so much the Captain had to take his chair outside to write his log. He couldn’t leave her to explore as infrequent cyclists whizzed by and Lottie gets cross if they zip too close to her.



 



Moored for the night





The top of the Trent and Mersey canal

Peaceful Marbury Country park

We woke to a lovely morning with the barometer pointing to fair. After breakfast we moved off swiftly before feeding Lottie as we wanted to explore Marbury Country park which was twenty minutes cruise away. We wanted to give Lottie a special walk as we didn’t know what lay beyond the Anderton lift and thought she might have to be on a lead for the next few days.

Stream and lake

As we crossed the canal on a footbridge Lottie became excited smelling the woods ahead. She chose to turn right after the bridge onto the path to the mere and we followed her. Could she sense the wide lake beyond the trees? Lottie ran and frolicked like a puppy and played with dogs she met in the wood. She ran ahead eagerly exploring then checked we were still following.

Speedy exit

The path weaved gently between the trees then dipped down to a vast mere with Lottie still bouncing. Having become hot Lottie waded into the lake and stood with the water up to her neck then lapped it up. Cooled down she chased through the trees again. When we turned round we followed a lower path that followed the edge of the mere. Knowing she might never be there again Lottie ran, jumped and explored frantically then cooled off in the mere again.

Her joy added to the pleasure of a super walk. It was as if she knew we chose that walk for her. Every now and then she would trot back to us eyes shining with happiness then she would swing round and charge of again.

old working boats

When the path veered from the mere she delighted in a narrow stream and was still full of bounce when we reached the bridge almost an hour later.

“She’ll dream about this tonight,” the Captain said, as she gobbled her breakfast back at the boat.

We had a good cruise round to the Anderton Lift. A hasty hire boater caught us up as we reached the lift. The first of two boats waiting to enter the holding tank waved us ahead of them then pulled out before the hire boat. They were held up as the two boats manoeuvred into the holding tank sweeping around another hire boat (that was inconsiderately moored in the for transit to the weaver mooring). The canal became shallower and narrower but had some wonderful views into the Weaver valley. As we cruised the Weaver last year we could trace the course of the river far below from some of the buildings across the valley.

Barton tunnel

Eventually we saw the massive swing bridge on the Weaver before entering the bent Barnton tunnel. Although crooked we could see the far arch so we knew there were no boats coming. Lottie whined so I searched for her treat box. By the time I found it we had nearly cleared the tunnel so I decided to wait until the next tunnel to give it to her. Shortly after emerging from the tunnel we spotted Saltersford locks (where we had moored last year) 60 feet below.

On arriving at Saltersford tunnel we found two boats queuing before us. Although we did not see a sign the boat skipper at the head of the queue insisted that we were only allowed to enter the tunnel between the hour and twenty past. The Captain did not argue though our 5 year old book said check the way is clear before entering.

View across to the viaduct over the River Weaver

As the minute hand reached 12 our little flotilla set off into the dark. The tunnel twisted one way then the other but the roof was mercifully high. Lottie whined so I gave her the expected tunnel treat – a dried tripe stick. On the far side of the tunnel was a large sign telling us that the south bound traffic could only enter at half past the hour so the lead boater had been correct. Had someone nicked the sign for its scrap metal value, little thinking of the harm they might have done or had we blindly sailed past? If the latter the second boat in our convoy had also missed this vital sign as they also had expected to squint into the dark tunnel and enter if they did not see the spot light of an approaching boat.

Moored at the site of the 2012 Dutton breach

The boats ahead of us soon left us behind. I guessed they were trying to reach Preston brook tunnel before 2.00 as it also could only be entered on the hour. If a boat reached the tunnel just after 2.10 it would have to wait 50 minutes before entering.

We realised that we were too slow to make the tunnel so made mooring for lunch our priority.

We had just over a mile to the tunnel when we spotted two moored boats ahead on a super mooring. We joined them on the lovely new moorings at 1.15.

view from our Dutton mooring

On stepping out of the boat we realised we were at the place where the canal had a major breach at Dutton flooding the surrounding countryside. The Canal had closed for weeks while the breach was repaired and boats on the near side of the breach were guided to their destinations along the river Weaver and the Manchester Ship canal. The canal spirit instantly kicked in with firms on either side of the breach helping boat owners or hire boat company’s on the other. To confirm our thoughts under our lounge window a plaque was screwed to the concrete.

It said This is the centre line of the breach in 2012.

Trent and Mersey Mile marker

The breach must have swept away the trees for there was a superb view down into the valley. The slope had been re-grassed and some young trees planted but it seemed bare compared with the wooded slopes on either side.

The end of the canal

After a short lunch break we set off at 14.25 in order to reach Preston Brook Tunnel just before it’s 3.00 window. We arrived at the stop lock to find a queue coming up. The upcoming boat came out and the Captain took Fine Chance in. I operated the lock but was perplexed as water was flowing over both top and bottom gates. However the boat rose several inches and the top gate opened with help from the muscular lad in the boat coming down. We swept round the corner at 3.00 precisely and entered the tunnel. Unlike the first two it was straight but Lottie was dismayed to do a third tunnel in one day even though she received and demolished a second tripe stick.

We emerged into a wide canal with solid stone banks and wide views over rural countryside –we had reached the Bridgewater canal. We cruised it for an hour enjoying the good weather and moored after a large village knowing the urban spread of Manchester was not far away.

Smoke signals

 

Deep locks heading for Middlewich

The Captain muttered about the fridge’s light flashing as he made tea but I think he just kept the door open too long as it stopped when I looked at it. Certainly the batteries were coping. Eventually we got moving and ambled through pleasant surroundings until after the first lock where the road closed in and roared alongside.

Locking is harder with the road so close as Lottie has to be kept on a lead. Just as I wanted to move to the other end of the lock Lottie lay down so I put the extending lead on the ground and left her lying there. As the locks are long enough to take a 72 foot boat I moved that far from her. I was busy raising the first paddle when Lottie picked up the lead by its large plastic handle and trotted up to me. Clearly she has found a way to move without the lead slowing her down. 

When the Captain walked forward to the next lock a hire boat crew raised the paddles to empty it even though he called “boat coming,” to them. They turned their backs on him as he jogged the last few metres to the lock. What can you do? Even though the water had been at our level it soon became theirs. I arrived and moored at the lock bollards but their boat wasn’t in sight so why had they been in such a hurry?

The boat eventually arrived with a cruiser immediately behind it. The captain leaned on the beam swapping stories with the Skipper of the cruiser and let the pirate crew get on with the work even though they had trouble turning one paddle. I guess they were in a hurry to leave the noisy road behind.The sky blackened as we entered Kings lock. As it was followed by three more I expected to get wet before we moored but a lady wielding a windlass came round the corner as the Captain was descending the first of the three.

“We’re coming up the middle lock,” she gasped.

 canal-side meadows

“I’ll leave these gates open then,” I replied noticing Lottie exploring far below the lock on the off side. I was happy with this as it was far from the busy path on my side of the lock. Did she realise that was the only place she would be allowed to roam off the lead. 

"I will too.” She smiled and disappeared back round the sharp bend to the lower lock. Now that’s sensible boating. The two boats passed in the middle of the pound and each entered the open lock ahead of them. Everybody gained. A boat was rising in the last lock so once again the two boats passed in the pound. 

Locking by pretty gardens

The rain started as the Captain sailed out of the lock but the mooring before Middlewich Big lock was just around the next corner. I jogged to the bridge where the Captain threw me my waterproof but we had moored before the deluge began. When the rain abated he set off to the local shops returning with our lunch and lots of delicious supplies.

The Captain decided to restart our journey at the worst possible time. The boat ahead of us fired its engine up and clouds of blue smoke billowed out completely obliterating our view of the narrow boat.

“I’m not going through Big Lock with that!” the Captain declared. I didn’t argue as I had never seen a boat smoke like that. As the boat cast off and headed towards the lock huge billows of blue smoke rose in the air. The Captain relaxed for 10 minutes then started his smoke free engine and headed for the lock. 

A straight section

They were still in the lock with a huge space beside them. Normally we would have moved off swiftly to save water but the Captain was unrepentant. 

“Look at all that smoke,” he muttered. “That poor engine could go bang at any time if its burning oil like that.”

I went forward to work the lock but didn’t help when the amply proportioned lady struggled to close the gate as she had three lively dogs running free whereas poor Lottie was on the lead to prevent her scrounging food from the people sitting in the pub garden.

At last we had the lock to ourselves. I emptied it but no one arrived to share it so we locked down alone but fume free.

The Captain was not so smug later on! A hire boat pulled out in front of us as I struggled to open the lock gate. Even though the Captain had to come and help me we caught up with it at the aqueduct around the corner as they were cruising so slowly. Normally the boats in front of us disappear into the distance. We aren’t fast cruisers but found we caught them up around one corner while crawling along at tick-over. The boat speeded up on the straights but stopped for every corner.

Eventually they speeded up a little but that put our boat at the speed where everything rattles on our boat. The Captain got round this by cruising slightly faster than cutting to tick-over until the boat had pulled away. We followed them a long time fascinated by their unusual cornering. They hit the bank with the nose then pushed off from the front to get round the bend. The Captain nearly went round the bend watching. Perhaps he should have shared lock water with the smoky boat!

To my surprise we never saw smoking boat again – I had been convinced there would be a huge bang and then we would assist the stricken vessel. 

neon blue coloured dragonfly

Going so slow we were able to appreciate the beauty of our surroundings. first we enjoyed the dragonflies flittering past us. Minutes later we had the joy of seeing a kingfisher flying before us across one of the wide flashes. We passed several of these flashes (or shallow lakes)where salt had been extracted leaving a shallow lake to the side of the navigation before the hire boat moored up leaving us to carry on at a faster pace. 

We moored at Lion Salt works as it started to rain. The only rings were next to deep mud pools which Lottie would have tracked into the boat but we found holes behind the concrete piling that had been made by previous boaters, and used them to put the pins in. All in all other boaters made this day more interesting but I wonder how far the smoky boat will go before it blows up.

 

 

Change of Plan

happy hound

Lottie woke the Captain at 6.30 to go rabbit hunting. After breakfast she was keen to cruise so we were first away from the mooring. The Cheshire locks were built as pairs but some of the locks have become dilapidated and can no longer be used and a couple have been filled in. We met boats coming towards us at convenient times and moved through this spread out flight steadily until we met the hotel boat towing its butty.

A lot of ducklings to feed

The hotel boat captain told us that lock 10 on the Aston flight had a gate broken on Friday. It will take a couple of weeks to build and fit a new gate which means we cannot do the Cheshire ring as planned.
after studying the canal map we decided we could explore the Leeds and Liverpool instead.

Cygnets seem unafraid of thunder

We moored for lunch at Wheelock. By 1.30 dark clouds had amassed and within the hour it was raining. The Captain wasn’t going to get wet a second day running as there is no good mooring for hours after Wheelock due to a main road running immediately adjacent to the canal for miles. It brightened up by 3.00 so the Captain walked Lottie. She slipped through a gap in the wall and went exploring. Though he called she did not come back for some time. Eventually she charged back to him looking pleased with herself. She soon started shaking when the clouds rolled over us and thunder sounded in the distance but the cygnets and ducks were unconcerned as they crowded round our rear deck hoping to be fed.

hogging the sofa

The rain came down heavily and Lottie cowered in the corridor where she obviously felt safest. Storm over she returned to share the sofa with the Captain. eventually she pushed him into one corner and stretched out her legs dangling over the edge.

Its easy for the lurcher - she plays, rests and has occasional frights. However she doesn't have to check the bat is working, shop or decide which way we will head next. Who knows what we will do tomorrow or where we will go on this cruise.

 

Curious Cat

Harecastle tunnel south portal

In the morning everything glistened due to rain in the night but the clouds were not leaking. This was strange as the barometer was stuck on rain. We left Westport lake wondering how long it would be before we got wet again.

A boat appeared as we approached Harecastle tunnel. This could mean we had missed the passage through and would have to wait at least 1 ½ hours to go through but a boat was just entering the tunnel as we pulled up. There were detailed safety instructions as a hire boater had died in a tragic accident last week. After a safe passage we emerged into brilliant sunshine quite different from the other side of the hill where dark clouds hung.

After passing under the Macclesfield canal the Captain pulled over after 3 locks thinking it was time to moor then realised it was only 10.30. He was passed by a boat coming down behind us. The lady working the lock apologised but I used the parallel lock and the two boats descended together.

rural delight

We locked down a further three locks Lottie loved the rural aspect and explored each lock revelling in her freedom. After the sixth lock the Captain decided to moor and I realised I didn’t have Lottie’s lead. While he moored up I plodded back to the locks. After a while Lottie realised I was missing and chased after me. I must have been out of sight for she returned to the Captain’s call and waited watching for my return.

I checked the first lock – no lead. I went on to the second and searched around. A single hander descending one lock asked what I was looking for.

“My dog’s lead,” I replied sheepishly.

Paired Cheshire locks

“I threw it on my boat,” the old timer replied. I closed the gates for him as his boat exited and he threw the lead onto the bank. Thank goodness. It was a super extending lead that the Captain had bought the week before to replace a faulty one. I would have been toast if I had lost it. As the single hander’s boat was following me I opened the next lock gate for him then plodded back to the boat thirsty from the heat.

footbridge and locks

the Captain was repairing the rear step but Lottie greeted me as if I had been lost for hours.

The afternoon was sunny so after a good break we cruised on. Lottie was not so desperate to do all the locks and chose to lie on the back deck sunbathing for a couple of them something she has never chosen to do before.

We moored up in Rode Heath next to a meadow with walks across it. Lottie was gazing at it hopefully when the cat from the next boat hopped onto our rear deck and jumped inside the boat. Fortunately Lottie didn’t spot the intruder.

“Your cat’s on our boat,” the Captain called.

“She does that,” the owner admitted. “Chase her out - she won’t do it again.”

“I was worried our dog would hurt her,” the Captain said.

Cat on the dogs sofa

“She can look after herself,” the cat owner replied. The Captain found the cat curled up on the sofa and chased the cat out just as Lottie came in. Lottie sniffed the air frantically and seemed puzzled. That cat had a narrow escape. The cat then stretched out in the sun alongside our boat. Lottie barked at her to tell her that bit of towpath belonged to her now and the cat moved off.

They eyed each other from their own territories but there was no fight! After a super walk we had ice-creams - quite different from yesterday.