Inshore beach



heron fish watching

heron in flight

We woke to a cloudless sky and the barometer pointing to fair. The view over the Weaver valley was beautiful and birdsong filled the air. After a relaxed breakfast we cast off without the fridge flashing to ask for more power.

idyllic cruising

We paused to buy bread and milk in a farm shop only to find it was closed. In that minute (Blue Dragonfly who we have passed and been over taken by since Monday) overtook us again. Realising time was tight to enter Saltersford tunnel between the half hour and ten to the hour we tried to keep them in sight. Blue Dragonfly slowed down for moored boats and corners so we kept up fine.



Peaceful flash

We rounded the final bend with two minutes in hand. Blue Dragonfly’s nose was in the tunnel – then it slowly backed up.

“I thought I saw a boat in the tunnel,” he said. Lottie played with his terrier as we waited but no boat came out until 10 past 10.

By the time we entered Saltersford tunnel there was another boat moored behind us. Inside the tunnel I was convinced there were more boats following it but the tunnel was so bent it was hard to tell.

The canal snaked across a winding hole then entered Barnton tunnel. Once again Blue Dragonfly entered the tunnel and backed out. We floated around for five minutes with the boat behind drifting round the corner, then a boat popped out.

Old salt working base

Blue Dragonfly entered the tunnel like a ferret down a rabbit hole before any other boat could enter from the southern portal. The journey through the tunnel lasted only a few minutes unlike Blissworth and Harecastle tunnels. When we stopped at the other side of Barnton tunnel at the handy mooring rings we counted the boats as they passed us. One two three. The last two boats must have timed their approach to the tunnel perfectly – unlike us.

Factory complex

Armed with bread and milk we had lunch before we cruised on. We passed the Anderton Lift gleaming in the sunlight but there were lots of empty moorings nearby –unlike the last time we passed when it was full up.

The Lion Salt Works were still being restored but maybe they will be open for visitors next year

Today the flashes were quiet - perhaps the local wild life was sleeping hidden in the reed beds.

 

Factory pipe bridges

We passed a vast factory complex of a paint producer that stretched for miles. somehow it was more attractive in the sunlightThe afternoon grew hotter and hotter. I sat in the shade of the front door until the boat turned towards the sun. Whilst steering I tried to keep my legs in the shade from the door as I felt I was cooking, even though I had slathered the sun screen on.

Cloud reflections

As we reached the idyllic Bramble Cuttings (a tiny patch of green shaded by trees on the off side away from walkers and cyclists) the Captain decided to moor behind the other boat.

“We’ll move on and moor below the Big lock later,” he said swiftly tying up to the mooring rings on discovering our boat just fitted the shorter gap. What a relief not to bang pins in on such a scorching afternoon.

This way

We settled at the nearest picnic bench in the dappled shade while Lottie sniffed around haphazardly. The guy from the other boat fished from his stern enjoying the peace. Several boaters passed and remarked on our idyllic spot but could not moor as the brambles closed in beyond our boat.

Shade wonderful shade

Attached to the tree by our bench was a sign. Instead of the more usual KEEP OUT or PRIVATE this sign read TO THE BEACH. I though how strange then relaxed until Lottie investigated the path it pointed to. We followed her and found it led to a tiny sandy beach which led into the canal. Lottie waded out until she only had her head above water enjoying the cool water. It must be so hot wearing a fur coat in summer.



Lottie found the beach

The Captain was so relaxed with his pre-dinner beer he decided to stay the night.

“It’s a beautiful spot. Who cares if it’s a bit early,” he murmured rubbing his aching back. “The early stop will prove whether one leisure battery will cope with another full night without power.”

Soggy ground

Birds on the cables

The fridge was still working properly when Lottie rudely woke us to go out so the single battery ran the fridge (and the water pump) overnight. It’s just as well we don’t have TV on board as that drains batteries quickly. We had a leisurely breakfast without problems so one battery powered us for 12 hours without running the engine to recharge it.

canal side dwellings

We cruised to Agden bridge to take on water as water points are scarce then moved on. The sky clouded over and it started to rain at mid day. As the rain grew heavy the Captain moored up but by the time the pins had been hammered in and he had sat down to eat the rain stopped. Our lunch time was extended by more heavy showers but the Captain set off hopefully when they stopped.
 

bridges old and new

Lottie dislikes tunnels so normally gets a treat to chew, but I fed the dog during the underground voyage. The stop lock had water flowing over both gates but worked without problems and the Captain found a mooring. He bashed in the pins but thought the ground was too soft for them to hold.
 

Flowers brighten a grey day

“Surely everyone’s moored up for the night,” I remarked. As the Captain arranged the fenders two boats passed one . The pins pulled out like knives through soggy butter even though the boats slowed down for us. The Captain threw the ropes onto the boat and moved on in search of secure mooring. We joined several boats in a pleasant spot and the pins hammered in well.

Lottie checking what's ahead

No boats passed after we moored up at 18.20.



swan and cygnets making themselves at home

The underground canals at the Delph

a canal mine portal

The flashing fridge light couldn’t spoil a lovely morning even though the Captain would have to replace the leisure batteries. At least they have lasted four years as they were last changed on our way to the river Lee. The Captain ran the engine for a while to charge them before we set off.

Add caption

We moored at Worsley visitor moorings 45 minutes later eager to explore the Delph where the underwater coal mine met the Bridgewater canal. If it wasn’t for the coal the canal would not have been built. There were workmen clearing the scrub around the basin as we went in to take a closer look but we kept out of their way.

Barges once came out of this portal

There were several mine entrances though one had no water in it. The bright rusty water was flowing out of another portal. It was more interesting than I had thought. What a dreadful job those miners had. The coal canals stretched for 46 miles in a branching pattern. Surprisingly the underground canals ran on four different levels. How did they manage such a feat of engineering with mainly picks and shovels? Sadly men died working in the mine – there were no unions or health and safety in those days.

houses above the Delph

As we left the basin we noticed the heavy padlock on the open gate.

“We’re not meant to be in here are we?” the Captain asked a man holding a strimmer.

“Not really,” the man replied, then went on to tell us how the Delph was going to have walks put through it so people could look at the basin. Normally that isn’t possible at the moment as the access path is slippery! I guess we were lucky to get to see it before it is all restored.

clean paws

Lottie however cut the conversation short as she wanted to explore the path through Worsley Woods. That also was interesting with pretty streams and steep wooded paths. All Lottie wanted to do was cool off in the water – but most of the streams had soft muddy approaches as if the levels had dropped.



lake above the mine workings



Dirty paws on a happy hound

Curiously there was a lake above the mine portals. Surely that wouldn’t have been there when they were mining as the men would have been afraid of water trapping them below ground.

view from Barton Lane underbridge

Back at the boat Lottie had a rare shampoo to get rid of the sticky mud but she soon dried off in the sun. We had a pleasant cruise back over the Barton swing bridge and back through Manchester.



View from the Barton swing aqueduct

The canal has long straight sections and I had just started one of these when a narrow boat closed up swiftly. He drove past me as if my boat were moored up. The speed on the canal is 4mph but we cruise at about 3mph. This guy had a huge bow wave and disappeared as quickly as he caught up. Surely he was doing 6 to 7 mph. When we turned onto the next long straight he had vanished. It takes all sorts and livened up a boring stretch.

is it a steam train?

The next entertainment came from observing the workforce improving the towpath. They had mini diggers and dumper trucks and rolling machines spread over several miles of canal. Most of them were working industriously at their own patch of path. Two cyclists speeded towards the closed path then dismounted and slung their bikes casually over the fence into the local park. Perhaps they have been using that diversion since the path closed.



barges supplying materials for the towpath construction

We moored in a quiet spot three miles from Lymm. It was just as well that we didn’t cruise at great speed for when the Captain went down the engine hole to turn the stern gland his batteries were very hot. One was fizzing angrily like a shaken coke bottle about to explode. He tried to call a local chandlers about buying new batteries but got cut off as he had a poor phone signal.



Church in Ashton upon Mersey



Frustrated he disconnected the fizzing battery to make it safer and to stop it discharging the second leisure battery. The fizzing soon stopped although it took a long time to cool down.

“We’ll see how much charge we have left in the morning,” he announced gloomily.



towering ship shaped flats

Goodbye Leeds and Liverpool Canal

Wigan Pier

Our fridge started flashing at 8.05. last time this happened was four years ago when the leisure batteries suddenly died a few days later. The Captain ran the engine while we had breakfast and the light stopped flashing almost immediately.

Urban towpath

After breakfast we cruised into Crooke and was surprised by all the spaces, but a skipper preparing to move off told us the village had been packed full – and they were all heading in our direction. His boat pulled out and followed us to the first lock where two boats were ascending. They scarpered into the distance leaving us lock wives to close up. Perhaps they didn’t feel strong enough to help us.




Flash (lake) left from old mine workings

It was much easier and quicker locking with another boat but they were stopping after three locks if they could moor in the secure gated site in Wigan. Talk about lucky – it was full (there was only room for two long boats) but one skipper indicated he was about to move off.

We ascended the next lock on our own but the Wigan flight keeper came by and helped the Captain. The following lock was after the junction but the boats ahead were still locking down as we arrived. I’m not surprised – they were very leaky.
 

Crane holding stop planks

By the time they had left another boat came up behind us. Their skipper and lock slave of Blue Dragonfly were amazingly lively considering they had spent several hours locking down the lower half of the 21 flight. They informed us that the locks were heavy and in poor condition but that they were going to be worked on next year.

“We will try them after the improvements,” the Captain decided.




old chimney

Blue Dragonfly led the way out of the final lock on the Leeds and Liverpool canal. Within minutes they were out of sight.

“We are averaging 3 lock miles per hour,” the Captain said. “Yet we seem to be the slowest boat on the canal.”

Naturally we were alone for Plank lane swing bridge which contrary to its name lifts! I operated it with more confidence but the queue still stretched round the corner in each direction. What power a small key has!

 We were struck by the sign posts on the tow path which gave times for cyclists instead of the usual distances. We moored up in Leigh to go shopping for food behind a broad beam. The other side of it was Blue Dragonfly. From its deserted appearance the crew had also gone into town.



Budlia and water lilies



After shopping it drizzled for a while delaying our departure but at 4.20 the Captain set off to find a quieter mooring more to Lottie’s liking. I walked her out of town until I saw several drunks slumped on a canal bench ahead. Although they were unlikely to accost me I chickened out and rejoined the boat. They called out to us merrily waving their beer bottles so perhaps I had been wise after all.



leaving Leigh

cycle signs

The water grew clear as we headed towards Astley Pit museum whose mine buildings added interest to the skyline. Soon we could see fish darting along the bottom. Along the far side the water lilies made a fabulous display. Strangely in one place there was a single large white water lily surrounded by hundreds of yellow ones.



We moored up outside Worsley in exactly the same spot as we had on the way out but this time another boat was moored further along the straight.

 



Astley Pit

Fishing rods and lock companions

The return journey is never so exciting but things still happen to entertain and we try to stop at places of interest we missed on the way out.

Although it rained in the night we were blessed with a dry though overcast morning although the Captain observed the red light flashing on the fridge gloomily. Two boats passed as the Captain cast off so we followed them – straight through the first swing bridge.

I ran up to the lady on the boat ahead and offered to work the next one as the Captain wanted to stop at the next town to buy milk and bread.

Lottie disliked the warning siren as the gates rose and fell but the bridge was easy to move with the push of a button. A car drew up as the bridge swung round so I indicated there were three boats passing through. The lady said a car had shot under a gate with her almost crashed into the gate at the far end and ended up swinging round on the bridge. Crazy driver! My driver gave a wave as the gates rose in stark contrast to the story.

At Burscroft Bridge the Captain looked for mooring but it was all permit holders only. One of the boats we were following has pulled up at the services mooring and the Captain squeezed in behind it. Thank goodness we are only 40 feet long. The sign said mooring limited to 1 hour.

The Captain declared, “well we need water,” and disappeared off shopping leaving me and Lottie with the boat. I dumped the rubbish and watched bemused as the crew of the other boat took turns to use the toilet.

“We’re using this loo as

ours needs a pump out,” one lady said. I didn’t like to mention that I thought the nearest pump out was over a day’s cruise away.

The captain returned as they cast off, thrust bread and milk into my hands and filled the water tank.

“I found Tesco’s but when I reached the till the girl said they couldn’t take money before 10.00! she said they were open so customers could browse. When I told her I wanted milk now and didn’t want to browse for nearly half an hour she directed me to Spar.”

“That’s what you call helpful staff,” I agreed.

As soon as we left town long rods stretched across the water, each angler waiting until the last second to withdraw his rod.

“Is it a competition?” I asked the friendliest face. He nodded so I wished him good luck. From the grim expressions on most faces it was a serious business. As we ran the gauntlet of extended poles one angler raised his rod so its end wobbled above our heads. I ducked fearing the hook would catch me. Another angler didn’t look and didn’t move his rod. The Captain (who was creeping the boat forward on tick-over hit reverse and still the angler ignored our boat. As our boat slid backwards the rod withdrew but the angler never glanced once in our direction.

still waters

It was a relief to leave the last rod behind and moor in Parbold for lunch. For once the Captain had an extended lunch time. Until today the canal had been quiet  but now boat after boat cruised past, disturbing the marvellous reflections. After 6 boats all going our way the Captain was amazed and decided to wait to let the lock queue die down. However within a few minutes another 2 boats slid past.

“More boats have gone by in half an hour than we’ve seen since we’ve been on this canal,” he muttered.

The Captain cast off and followed slowly, knowing there would be a long queue at deep lock. There were 4 boats waiting when the lock came into sight but at least they were all narrow boats so they could go up in pairs.

After a 30 minute wait the Captain emptied the lock and opened the gate for me to enter. As I moved off another boat appeared and followed me into the lock. The Captain opened the second gate for it but it hit the gate and bounced into our boat then clanged back into the lock wall. The crew member waited until the Captain had closed both gates before climbing the ladder to help.

They got away first as the crew member jumped on board as his boat left the lock while I had to pick up Lottie and the Captain. They operated the swing bridge which put us back in the lead. Did they think the Captain would do all the work at the next lock for them?

canal-side flowers

At Dean lock I got off then we saw a boat was in the lock. A single hander was waiting for a boat to pair with. The boat behind speeded forward as our boat entered the lock then realised just in time it was occupied.

After a short cruise the Captain spotted a length of piling (no banging in of pins required) and moored just outside Crooke which must have been full of boats avoiding the flight of locks into Wigan.

rest time

I walked Lottie back to a narrow wood and found it had several pleasant paths winding through it. Lottie turned it into a racetrack and chased around like Lewis Hamilton trying to get pole position. When she pulled up next to me panting she spotted the shallow river Douglas through the greenery. She charged in, cooled down, then did several more circuits of her track like a pure greyhound before trotting out of the wood back to the boat. Once fed she collapsed and slept the evening away, only waking to check out her bowl in case we had left her some dinner. After a day on the lead our lurcher lurched herself flat out until she felt ready to stop. I’m glad she likes this mooring.

Family fun

Lottie

It was hot before 9.00. We arranged to meet some family that live on the Wirral at a bridge in a small village. Our family thought it would take over an hour to get there as the traffic is awful and we worked out it would take us 1 ½ hours. The race was on!

It was a pleasant cruise and we arrived at our destination an hour and a half later. We found a mooring within sight of the pub and bridge. The car park was between the boat and the bridge. Fifteen minutes later Ben’s classic car rolled into the tiny car park. Lottie was excited to have visitors and dashed up and down the tow path. She soon calmed down and consented to share one dinette sofa with Ben.

splash landing



coot

Ben and Vera admired our boat and shared news over a coffee before we headed to the pub for lunch. Lottie whipped the lead out of my hand as we walked into the garden and scampered after the Captain who had entered the pub to get drinks and menus. A quick witted waiter grabbed the lead and handed Lottie to me now red faced with embarrassment. As we joined Ben and Vera she spotted several ducks resting on the grass and charged. The extending lead unravelled and I took off after her like a water skier. Somehow Lottie stopped short of the water wagging her tail as she had put the ducks in the place she thought they belonged. By the time her beloved Captain had returned Lottie was sitting quietly by my bench. She waited quietly throughout lunch hoping for titbits then got restless and took me for a walk down the towpath while the others finished their drinks.



flat surroundings

Finally it was time to cruise. We had already decided to turn round today but would have gone as far as Aintree or beyond if we hadn’t met Vera and Ben. However we had been told that we had to give CaRT 5 days notice if we wanted to go to Liverpool so that had become impossible. 5 days seems an incredibly long time for boaters who delight in not knowing how far they will get each day or even which direction they will take that day. We would have needed to inform CaRT before we realised we were going to Liverpool- Crazy!



King of the canal

Anyway Vera settled in the bow and Ben took the helm as soon as the Captain had it out of our mooring. He seemed a natural helmsman even though he had never steered a narrow boat before. He winded the boat in the winding hole following the Captains instructions but a strong gust of wind sent him sideways. Vera and I were sent into the deep reed bed before Ben reversed up and completed the turn.

Although the wild life only consisted of coots, ducks and a stately heron and the view consisted of flat fields our guests enjoyed their short cruise. After reuniting them with their car we cruised on to find a mooring for the night.

“The weather’s been lovely,” the Captain said. “Ben said it would rain at 5.00.” Within minutes the wind got up, the sky darkened and it began to rain – at exactly 5.00.

Laughing I handed the Captain his waterproof and ducked inside to close the front doors and windows as the rain grew heavy. After 25 minutes the Captain found a mooring and the days cruise was over. We were on our way home.

 

Bridges great and small

traditional arched bridge

It was sunny again when we woke. At this rate I’ll be out of sunscreen. It was peaceful this morning and the Douglas valley was lovely. I arranged to meet my aunt and uncle tomorrow wondering how Lottie would react to strangers visiting her boat.

Modern road and rail bridges

I cunningly worked the first lock leaving the Captain to do the second one as it was called Deep lock. The boat descended smoothly into the depths but the Captain declared it was no harder to open than the shallower ones we had struggled with.

While we were locking I reflected on the three modes of transport running alongside each other – canal, road and rail. Then along came three ponies adding to the transport tally as the horse preceded the other three.

amazing reflections

The Captain tackled the first swing bridge which required muscle not electronics to work but he declared it was easy to operate. The following swing bridges were open or derelict.

Today we saw bridges of all kinds as there were also traditional arched bridges and modern concrete ones soaring high above us.

 

weeping willow

We moored at Parbold. After lunch we cleaned the boat, a task we normally reserve for wet days. However the wet day was spent locking up in Stoke.

After our labour we cruised on taking on water at the Rufford branch. We looked at the locks there and I helped a lady open a gate.

Stark beauty of dead tree

“Are they all this heavy?” I asked.

“Yes. I’ve had enough of locking.”  

Her face was red and she looked hot so why didn’t her Captain share the lock work with her? I’ve noticed lots of women work the locks while the men drive the boat, surely the men should take their turn. On our boat we share the lock work. Are the men lazy or are the women afraid of driving the boat? I suspect it’s 50/50.

Converted windmill

Our problem now became finding a mooring as the banks slope away from the water making it hard to get close. After a couple of failed attempts we pulled the boat to within 10 inches of the bank. As no fenders will work we may bump now and then. Surprisingly Lottie, who can jump six foot gap, was reluctant to risk falling down the gap!