the Minnack Theatre.

Porthcurno beach

looking down

The day was bright and clear when we woke up at 8.00. Lottie must have been tired from yesterday’s walks to let us sleep so late.

After breakfast Van-Man drove us to Porthcurno. It was a good drive with a few narrow bits but we didn’t meet any large vehicles. The spaces in the car park were a little on the short side but Van-Man backed into the soft bushes to get Sally-Van in.

climbing to the Minnack Theatre from Porthcurno beach

We walked towards the beach then followed the path to the Minnack Theatre.
At first the coast path sloped gently. Then it grew steeper. The second half of the climb was on steep rock steps twisting around the cliff face. As there were no hand rails people coming down were struggling with some of the deep steps.

the  Minnack Theatre

“I don’t want to go back this way,” I admitted as we waited for several people to descend a tricky narrow section.”

“We’ll go back along the road,” Van-Man said. We scaled the final climb and stood before the theatre. “Let’s go in,” Van-Man said.

grass topped stone seats

We walked through the Rowena Cade visitor centre which showed through historical photos how Rowena had built the theatre into the granite cliff face with her own hands so that she and her friends  could put on plays there. She was a truly remarkable lady.

We emerged into the theatre where a dress rehearsal was going on so we found a high stone bench section with grass seating and watched. As we were in the corner Lottie had a wider piece of grass to lie on.

Lottie's view

When the performer left the stage we let the people watching move then looked around the theatre.

It was an amazing piece of work. I spoke to the actor who told me he had performed there several times. I told him about the Shakespeare Company using the gardens of a hotel but thought nothing could beat acting at the Minnack unless it was raining.

“People sit with their umbrellas up and we carry on,” he laughed.

the lowest stone seats

“It does play havoc with the makeup,” I commented. “In a Midsummer Night’s Dream our fairies ere losing their silver blue colour.”

“I had a play where I had to grow old during the performance. As I am grey we did that by using a wash in dye which I rinsed out gradually to gain that effect. We thought it was better and cheaper than using several wigs. Unfortunately it poured down at the beginning of one performance and I ended up with black dye flowing down my face,” he told me.

looking down from the top

“But the show had to go on,” I replied.

“Oh yes. That’s the joy of open air theatre.”

He went off to talk to other visitors so I went back to Van-Man who had finished snapping away. He pointed up at a kiosk above us.

“I can smell pasties,” he said.

We were in luck the stall had two hot locally made pasties left.

Heading towards St Levan's Church

turquoise seas

We returned to our quiet corner to eat.

Van-Man had just finished his pasty when an announcement was made.

“Please can everybody leave the theatre now so that we can prepare for the afternoons performance. I still had half my pasty left but then it was huge. I put it back in its paper bag and prepared to evacuate with everybody else.

They could have warned us,” I said.

Van-Man checked the ticket. This lasts all day. We can come back in after the performance.”

“We won’t be around later.

“True but we’ve seen everything and I don’t think Lottie would hang about in there much longer.

Outside we walked past a long queue of people waiting for the performance.

“Will they all fit in there?” I whispered.

looking across at the rocky ascent to the  Minnack Theatre

We continued along the coast path signposted to St Levan’s church. The views from the coast path were lovely. We followed a path to the road that we thought led back to Porthcurno. The church was nowhere in sight.

“Do we really want to look at the church?” I asked wondering how far it was back to the village.

Van-Man turned right towards the Minnack Theatre.

Logan's Rocks

When we reached the theatre car park queues of cars were trying to get in, while other visitors who like us had just left were queuing to get out. As we walked down the lane we found it was single track in places so cars were having trouble getting out or in.

“I’m glad were walking,” Van-Man said. “I could have driven up there but we’d never squeeze Sally-Van back down.

pristine sand by Logan's Rocks

It was quite satisfying striding past the queuing cars, only a few managed to come down the hill while we walked it.

Back at Sally-Van we had a hot drink. There’s an hour and an half left on the parking ticket,” Van-Man announced. Do you feel like walking to the Marconi Monument?”

The Marconi Monument was a white pyramid which marked the spot where the first wireless hut stood on the cliffs to the east of Porthcurno.

No way down

“I agreed, hoping the climb would not be as hair raising as the morning one. It wasn’t. It climbed up but more gently until it reached to the top of the cliffs. The track was narrow and rough but didn’t make me breathless or experience vertigo. Along the top of the cliff the path wove through vegetation that was over six feet tall. For a while we were following a couple with a spaniel but they turned off down a narrow path that led towards the cliff edge.

is that it?

We passed several narrow paths but didn’t spot the memorial.We came to a cleared area above the beach that has Logan’s Rock at one end. We stopped to chat to another tourist who was sat with his dog enjoying the views when the couple with a spaniel appeared coming up from below us.

We decided to follow that path back to see if it led to the Marconi Monument. 

Lottie checks out the Marconi Monument 

That path gave a quick glance of the Monument and wonderful views of Logan’s Rock and the beach below. The Marconi Monument suddenly appeared beside the narrow trail. After that we had an easy walk back to Porthcurno.

We reached Sally-Van with less than 10minutes on our parking ticket so quickly packed up and drove out.

Back at the camp site it was windy but we watched another nice sunset from the comfort of our motor home.

time to descend

Lands’ End Sunset

Starting the walk

along the farmers fields

It was chilly when we got up but the sky was clear. After yesterday’s antics on the roads Van-Man decided to leave Sally-Van on site and walk to Sennan Cove. He chatted to staff and photographed the instructions.

“We can have lunch at Sennan Cove, giving us a break before walking back,” he announced.

part way down to the beach

The footpath went through our camping site, across a couple of farmers fields and then through The Caravan and Motor home Club site. We went all the way around the edge of the rival site then spotted the short cut as we climbed the stile into a field of cows. The walk was easy on level or gently downhill ground. We reached the lane and dithered then followed a footpath down a sloping twittern. It grew steeper and steeper with steps in places. My heart sank at the thought of climbing back up to the top.

Gwynver Beach

The beach is closer than I thought,”
 Van-Man announced as we stepped onto the sand.

“There’s no cafe,” I pointed out.

Walking to Sennan Cove

“It must be beyond that headland.” Lottie charged into the sea and sat down to cool off. We walked along the beach then climbed back up onto the coast path crossing a small stream where Lottie had a long drink. The footpath climbed up and twisted between rocks. Often we had to scramble over them.

At last Sennan beach opened up before us. A sign showed that there was a dog ban still in operation. On the far side of the long curving beach was the cafe.

It's still a long way to the cafe

“We’ll have to go round on the coast path,” Van-Man said. I didn’t fancy that and pointed to a couple with a dog above us. It looks a long way,” I warned.

Van-Man turned back reluctantly but brightened up when I told him I had cereal bars and crisps in my bag.

On reaching the dog friendly beach called Gwynver beach we sat on some rocks and had our snacks. Lottie had another drink from the stream.

back on Gwynver Beach

We strolled along the beach towards the far end then had to catch Lottie who had gone scrounging for food. The lady had been hidden by the rocks from our sight but not Lottie’s nose.

Once the hound was captured we tackled the steep climb back. It was hard work with the knowledge there was over half an hour’s walk at the top. We were hot at the top but had drunk nearly all our water. At least we cut straight across the camp site this time.

After plodding back we reached Sally-Van at 1.30 for a cup of tea and a proper lunch. We’d been out three and a half hours. After lunch we put our tired feet up.

Rocks off Land's End

 Van-Man suddenly leapt into action.
“It’s going to be a good sunset tonight,” he announced. “Let’s go to Lands’ End. The parking is cheaper after 5.00.”

We set off at 17.30 parked up then went to look around.

clear water

We went under the sign saying Lands’ End into a shopping arcade with lots of food outlets which were now all closed.
A hotel hogged the land beside the arcade. Forty years ago this was just heather and rocks.
The views were still excellent. We walked along the coast path past a farm with llamas, rare pigs and a building housing exotic crafts. 
Beyond them was the coast path twisting along the headland above the sea. 

rock arch

Lighthouse or Land's End Monster?

We had a good walk and returned to Sally-Van with half an hour left to sundown. As it was getting chilly we waited in the Van until five minutes to sunset then strode to the spot Van-Man had chosen for his photos.

Rock Duck

We watched the sky redden as the sun sank below the Atlantic then hurried back to our warm van.Back on site as soon as Sally-Van was on her ramps to make her level the electric was plugged in and Van-Man put a hunk of meat in the oven.

Sunset

 When he went to take the meat out he lost his grip on the aluminium tray and the meat shot onto the floor. The sauce it was cooked in flew everywhere splattering the drawers, loo door and the cooker.
I rescued the meat before the startled hound got her teeth into it. Quickly I carved the outside off before serving smaller potions for dinner. Meanwhile Van-Man wiped down the splattered surfaces before the sauce stuck.

 We ate the meat with a big salad and then tackled the mess again. Van-Man lifted the dog carpet which I made from stiff blanketing to protect the new carpet from muddy hound paws.

going

going

 It had protected the real carpet from the sticky sauce and rolled it into a bundle with the sticky stuff on the inside.
           "What shall I do with this?" He asked.

I took it off him and folded it up smaller and put it next to the toilet. Fortunately the whole bathroom is a wet room so it will be easy to clean if any sticky stuff oozes out.

We settled down with Van-Man lamenting how the day’s meals had not gone to plan.

gone

Levant mine

Walking from Geevor Mine

past Levant out workings

We woke to a sea view. After breakfast we decided to  drive north on the B3306 to visit Cape Cornwall, Levant Mine or any other interesting feature where we could park Sally-Van. The road was fine but narrowed through St Just.

 “Cape Cornwall and Levant mine that way,” Van-Man said.

over the Martian desert

Past a tall chimney

From the mine wall

“The NT book says Motor Homes and large vehicles should park at Geevor mine,” I replied.
 "We’ll go there then. We can try Cape Cornwall on the way back if there’s time.”
There was plenty of parking at Geevor.

to the Steam beam engine

past more mine buildings

 We checked at the mine shop but parking was free even if we didn’t visit Geevor mine. Van-Man was not keen on visiting Geevor mine as much of it was underground. He hates tunnels even though he tackled many on the canal boat) and of course Lottie would not be allowed in.

looking down on the beam engine

We followed the marked path to the main part of Levant Mine which held the lure of a working steam beam engine. Amazingly Levant Mine covered a vast amount of land with various and part of it looked like a lunar landscape with spoil heaps and various treatment areas.

Bean Engine House

It took about 20 minutes to locate the main mine buildings. Van-Man headed straight for the steam beam engine.

perched on the edge

“It’s in steam,” he said in hushed tones. “I thought they would only run it at the weekends out of season.” We went into the engine house as the beast stopped. The NT man running the engine was still explaining how it worked to several visitors.

more ruins

”I’ll be running it again in about 10 minutes,” the NT man said, seeing Van-Man’s disappointed expression. “It’s important to warm her up slowly. Once she’s up to speed she can run for much longer.”

We looked in the upper beam room and around the engine house while we waited. Lottie was unsure of the engine having had a fright with steam locos a few years back but waited without complaining.

Where the women worked

I was amazed to find that although Levant Mine went out over a mile under the sea it was quite a dry mine due to the rocks on the sea bed at this point. Many women and children worked at the mine. Although they did not go underground they had to work in the damp inclement weather clearing rubble and working in the stamp shop so many of them suffered from chest conditions.

When the engine was started up Van-Man and Lottie were standing next to some of the pistons and controls with the beam above our heads and the wheel to one side.

Bosigran Headland 

For a steam engine it was whisper quiet and made no funny noises. At first Lottie looked intently at the engine listening carefully but after a few minutes she moved to the exit where she could run if a steam dragon appeared. By then the engine room had become quite warm. We watched the engine until it stopped then explored the rest of the site gradually heading back to Geevor mine.

At Bosigran Cliff Castle

Back at Geevor mine we had lunch in Sally-Van which remained alone in our corner of the car park while Lottie lay by the rear of the van on the grass. After lunch we set off to find Trease Mine which was descried on the Levant hand out as a small but complete mine site. Van-Man continues along the B3306 towards St Ives.

“Where’s the road gone?” Van-Man exclaimed as we left Higher Bojewyan. “Have we turned off the B road? This is a single track road.”

“I don’t think so,” I replied looking up from the map. “Oh dear.”The Cornish hedges crowded the single track road so that Sally-Van almost touched them on each side. On closer inspection the hedges were growing out of solid walls so Sally-Van could hardly go over to the side.

Sea from Bosigran Cliff Castle

“There’s a van coming,” I warned seeing the top of its roof over the hedge. Van-Man sneaked Sally-Van round the corner where the commercial van had pulled up before an inadequate passing place. He squeezed into the gap and I pulled the wing mirror in as it brushed the vegetation. As the van passed two more arrived, one even bigger. Somehow it edged past and we set off again.

“I hope we don’t meet anyone else,” I said.

“How far does this narrow bit go?” Van-Man asked.

Trease Mine

“I don’t know.” I replied. “The Motor Home map does not show a width restriction on this road.”

“We turned off then.”

“No,” I replied. “This is Morvah. It’s on the B3306.” We could not turn around so we carried on. The road widened and shrank at regular intervals. We crept through Rosemergy and the road turned into a normal B road again.

Looking back to Sally-Van

A small mine appeared but the small car park was crammed with vehicles. Just past the mine a deep lay-by appeared. Van-Man pulled in and switched off the engine. He studied the map and sighed as pointed out Rosemergy.

“We must be here,” he said pointing. “What is the best way back to the campsite?”

Lottie interrupted. To her stopping somewhere like this always meant a walk. We got our boots on and abandoned Sally-Van.

 St Helen’s Oratory

A track led towards the sea so we followed it instead of going along the road towards the busy mine.
The walk to the headland was across fields and heath land. Even though the views were lovely they did not help to pinpoint where we were as the mine was not marked. We enjoyed the headland though the wind was picking up.

The rear of St Helen’s Oratory

We followed a different path back from the high stony outcrop and found a stone way post which pointed back the way we had come to Bosigran Cliff Castle. I don’t know if the tumble of rocks had been a castle which had been destroyed but it was an imposing position for a fortification. 

on top of Cape Cornwall

Back at Sally-Van Van-Man decided to return by the road we had come along as the way around St Ives was too far and he did not trust the B roads around this part of Cornwall. 
A short distance along the road was a cattle crossing which gave Van-Man room to turn Sally-Van around.

“There’s a coach coming,” I said as we wiggled through one narrow part. We stopped looking across at the coach. Below us the road twisted around a tight corner. The coach flashed us so Van-Man drove down the hill. After two tight turns we emerged to find the coach was opposite a big passing place. Sally-Van met a second coach in one of the villages but there was a wide spot where we could pass. Apart from that we had a good drive back to St Just.

Cape Cornwall Monster

View from Cape Cornwall

I thought Van-Man would head straight for the camp but he turned for Cape Cornwall. It was a single track road but he reached the NT car park intact after doci-doeing with a larger motor home than Sally-Van.
“If you had been five minutes earlier we would have had to send you away,” the NT attendant said. “It’s been sardines all day but a big space has just become available."
We walked across the field stopping to look at St Helen’s Oratory. It must be one of the smallest places of worship ever. You would struggle to get more than a dozen people in the tiny stone building. 
Then we climbed to the top of Cape Cornwall. I don’t know what possessed Van-Man as my legs were aching but he strode on.

Up on the top by the monument we could see Lands End and a light house on the Scilly Isles. Although the sun was shining the wind was so blowing fiercely that I felt in danger of being blown into the sea. I hung onto the monument while admiring the views. Van-Man and Lottie seemed untroubled by the violent gusts.
At last we trudged back down to Sally-Van. We watched the sea for a while from our excellent parking spot for a while before Van-Man drove back to the camp site. No way will I drive on the roads around here. Give me a motorway or a nice dual carriageway any day.

Lottie has been on her best behaviour all day even though she has been a bit snooty with some of the dog lovers.

Back at the camp site we had lovely sunshine so Lottie lay on the grass for ages even though it was quite windy. We watched a lovely sunset over the sea while having dinner in the van.

Several campers queued up in front of us snapping the sunset but Van-Man thought there was too much cloud to try today.

walking back to Sally-Van