under the bed

In the early hours of the morning a thunderstorm blew in. Lottie Lurcher managed to squeeze under our bed. As it extends out from the sofas there are two long drawer fronts narrowing the gap to 1 foot wide. Somehow she squeezed out at the cab end turned around and wedged herself back under the bead where she felt safest from the bangs.

She was nervous and stiff when Van-Man took her out but ate all her breakfast.

After breakfast we headed for Newcastle in sunshine. We stopped for lunch at Scotch Corner even thou it was early. Ironically we had Cornish Pasties from Falmouth in Cornwall for our lunch close the Scottish border and I took over the drive.

A car towing a caravan sped past me wagging its tail.

“They should slow down,” I said. A mile further on a caravan lay on its side the skid marks across the road showing how it had lurched out of control. A few minutes after clearing the accident I over took the caravan that had sped by me. As it was doing a stately 50mph I assume the sight of the wrecked van made them slow considerably.

After that we stopped at Blyth gave Lottie a quick walk and carried on with Van-Man at the helm.

The drive back to below Bedford was quick and easy. We stopped at Baldock services and I took over driving. I managed the massive south Mimms roundabout and headed onto the M25. We expected trouble because it was after 4.00 when we reached the M25. We had originally thought we would take a long evening dinner break and attack the M25after 7.00 but didn’t fancy waiting 3 hours to do that. Soon we encountered slow traffic in the inside lane as it queued to get off. It picked up a bit but the variable speed was fixed at 40 at junction 16 which never really improved. We crept by an accident and changed drivers while stopped in the queue, easy to do when you can stand between seats we crawled to junction 13 where the overheads said it would be an hour to our junction. “And the rest,” Van-Man said.

I navigated an alternate route from junction 11 and headed home via Woking, Dorking and Reigate. We stopped at Newlands corner to have a break, and walk and feed Lottie. We stopped at18.15 and carried on 50 minutes later. It was a quiet drive home from there. This is the longest trip we have done but will head up north again soon.

The South Tyne Track and Lambley Viaduct

View from the Railway walk at Alston

The day began calm and sunny but a heat wave was predicted.

“I can’t face any more Roman ruins,” Van-Man remarked. As we are going home tomorrow I don’t want do to any strenuous walking or too much driving.”

Thanks Van-Man, now what do I suggest? He plumped for driving to Alston in the Pennines. Alston boasts a heritage steam railway and is an easy drive along an A road. On the way a viaduct was marked which made his eyes light up as he loves these elegant structures.

the walk went through the trees

Lottie climbing down 

...up and down

On the way out we saw a car park for Lambley Viaduct.

“It’s too far from here,” Van-Man decided. “May be there is a closer car park.”

“I don’t think so,” I replied but the car park was behind us.

...and through the mud

The views of the Pennines were lovely. At Alston we followed signs to ca car park and picnic area. The parking was next to the heritage railway and free with plenty of spaces. Van-Man eyed up the crossing place cafe thoughtfully. “May get a pasty later,” he mused. Let’s walk the South Tyne along the railway. We passed the carriages sheds and a diesel so it looked as if there was no steam scheduled for today as the engine was probably locked away in the shed.
Van-Man lost interest as we were walking on a ballasted gravel track which Lottie clearly didn’t like.

and heading back to base through the trees

...in the boulder strewn South Tyne

I turned round happily as there was little shade beside the railway and it was already hot. The other way fizzled out at the road so we had to go through the town to find it again. Van-Man marched on in the heat but I saw a steep track leading down to the wooded walk by the river. 

He carried on to the bridge where there was no way down before retracing his steps to my path.

Diesel train passing Sally Van in the car park

South Tyne Track following the Railway

Lottie having got hot immediately stepped into the river had a drink and sat down to cool off.
We followed the peaceful path for thirty minutes sometimes climbing small stone steps through the trees until it became overgrown and narrow. Lottie naturally had several dips in the river on the way back and seemed to enjoy the walk. 

View form the viaduct

foot bridge below the viaduct

We returned via the playing fields which hugged the river thus shortening the walk along the road.
 Van-Man turned down the food at the cafe as it was all hot dinners which he didn’t fancy in the heat.
Back at Sally-Van we decided to eat at the picnic area in the shade as our motor home was in full sun and hot inside. The car park had filled up and so had the platform opposite our van.

view from the viaduct

on top of the viaduct

viaduct from the steps

 I was sweltering as I put together a packed lunch of crackers, cheese, fruit and lemon cake. After lunch we had just got into Sally-Van ready to drive away when the barriers on the crossing into the car park came down trapping us there. Van-Man grabbed his camera and jumped out of the drivers door. He stood just in front of Sally-Van taking pictures of the diesel.

“Nice little train,” he said on retaking the driver’s seat. “Shame there’s no steam today.”
He drove to Lambley Viaduct enjoying views of Northumbria this time, and parked in partial shade in the car park he had rejected on the way out.

graceful span

The South Tyne Track followed the old railway line so we expected to emerge on top of the viaduct. We passed old sleepers at the beginning of our walk proving we were following the track bed. After that a footpath signed to Lambley Bridge dropped down towards the river. It only took 20 minutes to walk to the viaduct in the shade of mature trees much quicker than Van-Man had thought.
It was scorching on top of the viaduct after the shade but the views were lovely. Lottie soon got hot in the full sun.

As Van-Man snapped away from different angles I watched a man cross the bridge far below us and begin to climb up a steep stairway onto the viaduct. As soon as he appeared at the far end Lottie wanted to go down to find the river.

keep up Van-Man

cooling down at last

almost back

“We’ll go back that way,” Van-Man decided. “And follow the path up to the old railway track.” We climbed down the steps which took some time as Van-Man took photos of the viaduct from different angles. Lottie kept looking for a way into the water but on our side the river bank was steep sided with big boulders.

“You can have a dip on the other side of the bridge,” Van-Man said. She trotted over to the footbridge and trotted up the steps. after checking that Van-Man was following she crossed over swiftly.

Before I reached the middle of the bridge I heard splashing from our now happy cool Lurcher. We followed the footpath along the river through a field but it started to turn away from the car park. We reached a junction and followed a signpost pointing uphill. It was a hot climb and there was no way out at the top so we followed the hedge and found another track liking ours to the old railway bed. We emerged not far from the rusty railway sleepers and plodded back to Sally-Van in the shade.

We drove back without trouble. Sally-Van’s display said it had been 29 degrees C but she had been in the shade. Before we pitched Van-Man prepared for the drive home by emptying the grey water and topping up the fresh tank. It was very hot back on site so we opened up the skylights and windows and took it in turn to have a shower while the other sat with the Lurcher on the shady river bank. It was a very hot evening but cooled down a bit as we went to bed.

Housteads Roman Fort and Wark Forest

It finally rained after dinner last night and carried on all night with strong winds. It was still damp and windy in the morning so we had a leisurely breakfast before heading to Housteads Roman Fort just before ten.

We arrived at 10.10 with two coaches packed with tourists. Parking was by number plate recognition which allowed us to pay as we leave so there was no guessing how much time was needed but the minimum was £3.00 for 3 hours. “That’s scary,” Van-Man said. “Technology’s taking over everywhere.”

What, more Roman ruins?

It was a fifteen minute trek up a steep hill to the fort from the car park and the path was heaving with walkers from 3 coaches and a herd of car drivers and passengers of varying fitness. Added to them was a bus load of walkers. Having got used to her own company Lottie looked disgruntled as people manoeuvred for space. We let the coach people go ahead but soon started overtaking the less fit ones. Some people didn’t look as if they would make it up the hill, whereas two boys vaulted the gate into a field before their father could open it for them. A third boy got stranded part way over the gate but his legs were shorter.

underfloor heating foundations

The fort had the footings of whole streets of barracks intact and a high surrounding wall. The site was so large that we soon got away from the coaches and their guides and didn’t feel hemmed in by the other visitors.

However it was very windy on the hill top and there was dampness in the air as if a cold shower was imminent. After looking around the fort Van-Man suggested walking along the wall. However we couldn’t get out onto it on top of the hill. After climbing down to the path we started to plod upwards again. A sudden gust of wind stopped me in my tracks.

Let's not follow the wall in this wind

“Let’s not bother,” Van-Man said. “My legs still ache from yesterday.”Lottie clearly agreed, instead of lagging behind she was pulling him back down the hill, the lead taught in his hands.

We took it in turns to look around the small museum and headed back to the van with Lottie leading. We had lunch during which I dug out our old faithful book Discovering Britain as it often had the less known wonders to visit.

We want somewhere out of the wind,” Van-Man said.

Where did those coach loads of people go?

“How about Wark Forest,” I replied. Its low lying and the trees will act as a wind break.”

“Not if it’s like the Ashdown Forest,” he replied. “The foresters keep cutting down the trees leaving only gorse. It should be called Ashdown Heath.”

“It’s in Northumberland National Park,” I told him. “At Stonehaugh.”

We looked at the road atlas. It showed 6 miles of narrow road to get there and marked a picnic area, however there were no weight or height restriction.

The communal latrine

“Why not,” Van-Man said getting out to pay the parking fee. “These local roads have been good and traffic free.”

It wasn’t far too where the single track road began but the wind buffeted the van. The road was narrow very straight rolling over the hills roman style but there were lots of passing places.

We met one car and one lorry on the way. Getting past the lorry was tight. Van-Man crept into a passing place and I folded back the wing mirror so the lorry could creep past.

Lower part of the fort

The small car park at the picnic site was empty with no parking charges and boasted a composting loo. It also had an information board showing various walks.

We decided on a blue walk past a waterfall, however finding the start of the walk was tricky as it wasn’t signed. We followed a public footpath as it crossed the river over a footbridge and through the long grass of the meadow beyond. The wind was far less noticeable here.

I pointed to the left. “The waterfall is over there."

“The path is this way. There may be a bigger fall over here.”

The peaty waterfall

I followed him and the track led to a wider one signed with an orange dot.

“That’s funny,” I said there was only red, blue and yellow walks.”

Perhaps this is the red one my colour blind hubby replied.

It’s orange,” I insisted. The track seemed to be a logging track following the perimeter fence so we headed back to the meadow noticing a lovely path on the far side of the river. Back in the hay meadow which was ready to cut there was a faint track leading to a barn.

it tastes fine

We followed Lottie along it and found the waterfall behind the barn which was the colour of tea due to the peaty water. Lottie enjoyed a dip in the stream and also a run through the meadow’s long damp grass. We only saw one walker on this walk.

The river at Wark Forest

Back at the car park we checked the map on the information board. The waterfall was shown by a barn so we had found the right path. However a well defined path led from the corner of the picnic area along the other side of the rover so after a relaxing break with juice and a snack we headed that way. The Lurcher was still keen to go but we wandered at a leisurely pace through the tranquil surroundings. Lottie enjoyed the level walk and being able to paddle when she wanted. We left at about 4.00. I suggested going home via Hexham rather than cutting across to the campsite on the narrow roads. It was 24 degrees as we headed back on an easy drive.

our woodland walk

Van-Man and Lottie collapsed outside on the bank while I set up the inside for the evening. Before long Van-Man took Lottie for a short wander around the site to take pictures of our base for the week which I posted with the first days blog.

The evening was hot but fortunately there are two top hatches to open to keep the van cool. In that aspect it is better than our old boat.

Peel Crags and Crag Lough

Easy walk downhill  from the car park

The day started dry and sunny but the forecast predicted it would be a wet afternoon so we headed to Steel Rigg to get parked up and have an early start. However lots of people had thought the same so the car park was full again. However the overflow car park was virtually empty so we parked up with fine views over the valley.

then up the 200 ft rocky stairway 

and down again

From the car park we walked east towards Housesteads Roman Fort not realising how energetic the walk would be even though it was described as a strenuous walk with spectacular views. It was right. At first we dropped downhill through a meadow then my heart sank. Ahead of us people were climbing a rocky stair case that went up and up and up onto the Peel Crags. 

over a stile and along

superb views from the top of a crag

The rocky steps were narrow so we had to stop frequently as hoards of people descended. That gave me time to get my breath back. I think that first climb was over 200 feet but it felt further with the rough terrain. This part was certainly strenuous but I felt it would be easier walking along the top as it had been at Cawfields. 

how did they build this up here?

remains of a Milecastle

Lottie climbed eagerly unlike a Skye terrier that refused to move and ended up being carried up the rocky staircase.

Unlike yesterday this was full of walkers. How come they were on their way back as we were starting out? Had they started hours ago or come over the crags from Housesteads Roman Fort which was over four miles away. 

A dog on the other side of a steep sided valley

Crag Lough...

...a long way down

I'm hot ...

That distance wouldn’t take too long but as we soon discovered the wall ran along the top of each crag and descended to the bottom of the deep narrow valleys between each crag before climbing steeply back up.

...that's better

Van-Man pointed to a high crag ahead and intended going there for the view but soon realised it was too far as he had only bought 3 hours parking.



With hindsight that crag was close to Housesteads with maybe five big dips between it and its siblings. However the views were splendid where we were.
Lottie got hot and had a drink from one of the water bottles. She has learnt to let Van-Man squirt water into her mouth and laps up any spillage from his hand so we don’t have to carry a water bowl for her.

the way back...

However I was concerned that we would run out of water if it got hotter as the walk heated us up.
 Lottie was let off the lead after a while when the people thinned out and there were no longer sheep in sight.

As we climbed up onto Highshields crags Lottie spottedCrag Lough sparking ahead of us. She gazed at it as if it were an oasis as for the first time we were far from a river or lake.

by-passing two big descents

but we still had to go down

the last rocky steps

Chester’s Roman Fort.

We descended into Sycamore gap, yes there is a single sycamore tree growing there and climbed back up. We were now almost 200 feet above the shimmering water but Lottie knew there was no way down to it. I was tempted to turn back but I wasn’t going to be the first to quit and on we went. 

part of the bath house

There were less people walking beyond Sycamore gap and the path slowly descended. After about 20 minutes walk we could see the Lough not far below us. At this point Lottie was greatly admired by two Lurcher fans and she lapped up the praise greedily leaning on one lady as she was being stroked.

“My she’s heavy,” the lady gasped.

River Tyne

one of the baths

well preserved doorway

 Lottie followed Van-Man as he turned towards the water then charged in while I picked my way down the slope. 

yet more of the bath house

She had a drink then sat down in the water to cool off. As she can barely swim she never ventures out of her depth.We were about half way to Housesteads Roman Fort and half way through the parking time so we headed back. At the top of the hill we met a couple with two dogs who were about to turn round until we told them they could get down to the Lough.

with intact water ways

 They carried on speedily but caught us up with the two wet dogs and overtook us. We were climbing Sycamore Gap when I realised they were on a parallel path which avoided the most severe ups and downs. We turned off and followed them hopefully.

 It swung past two steep rises and was free of the trekking crowd that had re-emerged after Sycamore gap. However it rose slowly to the wall joining the upper path before the steep steps.
Lottie perked up when we were nearly back though she  slipped on the steep steps.

hypercaust for under floor heating

 On the whole she stayed out of the way as people clambered past her.One plump man, dressed in a yellow tee-shirt, stood at the bottom smugly videoing his family’s ascent. When they reached the top they urged him up. His face fell as he started the climb.

By avoiding two of the steep climbs we were back at Sally-Van with time for lunch before the parking ticket expired.

more hyercaust

We drove on to Chester’s Roman Fort. An unexpected bonus was a falconry display showing what birds would have been used in Roman times. As we had Lottie with us we watched from quite a distance before exploring the ruins. Within the fort many of the house walls could be seen and the bath house was amazingly intact. What intricate ablutions they had. Lottie was content to wander around the mostly level site

We also looked at the Roman bridge abutments. This time they were right by the river so Lottie had to have a long paddle.

I looked around Chester’s museum but Van-Man waited outside and didn’t take a turn after me. If it wasn’t for Chester’s owner being fascinated by the fort at the bottom of his garden a lot of the roman wall would have been destroyed. Spurred on by his excavations he got together with other land owners along the wall and campaigned to keep it as intact as possible.

We were tired by the time we left for the camp site. When we got there many campers had left so Van-Man asked to change his pitch as more fir cones had dropped onto our pitch. We only moved two spaces along but there were no overhanging trees.

By 5.30 the predicted rain still hadn’t made an appearance so the weather has been far better than Van-Man thought it would be from the long term forecast.

.

The ruins go on and on