Framlingham Castle and Dunwich

Lottie outside Framlingham Castle

Remains of the 13th tower

“The last major visit on my list is Framlingham.” Van-Man said over breakfast. Before we set off he did two Motor Home tasks filling with fresh water and emptying the grey water. After that we headed for Framlingham Castle which we found easily. We managed to park in a longer space in the small car park.

thick castle walls with decorative chimneys

Inside the castle walls

Lottie by the poorhouse

Before entering the castle we walked Lottie off her lead around the outside of the castle. The whole of the outer wall is still standing, along with 12 of the 13 towers. It was an impressive sight with strange chimneys up on the battlements.

Some of the outbuildings are missing but we entered the castle with great curiosity. All of the original interior buildings had gone but the walkway round the top of the wall was complete and begging to be explored.

chimneys on the fortified wall

looking down from the castle walls

one of the 3 chimneys connected to a fireplace

vast interior

The building occupying the position of the great hall was part of the poor house which the castle owner had built as he felt they needed supporting. Now it is the English Heritage shop and cafe. Compared to other poor houses the residents were well treated and not overworked. One resident entered the poorhouse pregnant had her child there and remained for the rest of her life. The baby daughter however left the poor house, married and had five children. Lottie took us round the ramparts with enthusiasm and then took us round the rest of the castle at a speedy pace. At one place we could see how a building built before the walls were thickened and reinforced had been incorporated into the outer wall. The curious chimneys had been added by the owner to persuade King John that it was a private residence not a fortification. That must have been tricky to pull off when the walls are two metres thick in places and only three chimneys were connected with a fire place.

Lottie allowed us to drink hot beverages while she lat patiently then demanded to move on.

After a last look around we headed to Sally for our lunch. While eating several cars came in and tried to park without success as the car park was full. One car parked on the end of the middle row then had to move as a Beemer couldn’t get past.

Having eaten we surrendered our parking slot and drove to Dunwich which boasted of heath land beach and marshes.

“What is that?” I asked on the way out of Framlingham. A tall man was pedalling a Penny Farthing along the road, towering above an old fashioned bone shaker.

“I don’t know how they ride those,” I said.

“I don’t know who though them up,” Van-Man replied. “It’s a crazy design.”

On the road to Dunwich Van-Man stopped at a big car park at Westleton Heath.

“Let’s walk Lottie here in case Dunwich is a bust,” Van-Man said. The whole area was a mix of trees and heath with gorse in flower on sandy soil.

marshland flowers

Lottie on the salt marsh

As we walked we found ourselves warhwed by big signs stating DANGER ARCHERY AREA. While we skirted the huge area I felt I was about to be attacked by Robin Hood and his Merry men, but they didn’t materialise. I guess they were still in Nottingham. Once clear of the archery we passed Exmoor ponies grazing also a long way from home. A sign proclaimed they helped keep the balance of trees to grassland. An electric fence prevented them straying over to the archery shooting range.

Sally in the car park

After a 40 minute walk we resumed the drive to Dunwich. The road narrowed as it approached the village but it was just wide enough for Sally. We followed the signs to the car park which turned out to be huge, free and right behind the sea defences. It was on the same level as the marshes and was possibly below sea level.

looking towards Sizewell

Having parked we stepped out to look around our Lurcher leading the way as if we hadn’t walked her. There must have been good sniffing there.

The beach was shingle and the sea defence a massive shingle dyke so we walked between the dike and the marsh. Of course Lottie had a dip in one of the marshy pools but emerged mud free. When we climbed the dyke to look at the sea with our reluctant hound trailing behind we found a slim sand path between the piles of shingle.

Lottie perked up and consented to walk along the sand.

When we turned around we could see Sizewell power station in the distance. However the area was picturesque and peaceful. Lottie charged around once we crossed the shingle and reached the marshy area

When we found an information board back at the car park it told us the original village had been swallowed up by the sea in the 11^th century leaving the small part we have today. We spent over an hour there drinking in the scenery.

I still miss our boat

We returned to the campsite after 4.00 but Lottie waited patiently on the grass while Van-Man hooked up the electricity and I put the seating down. We always travel with it up or a loopy Lurcher would jump up on the sofas and scrabble at them while we were driving along. After eating every scrap of her dinner Lottie came into the Motor home and slept. That was one exhausted Lurcher.

Flatford Mill and Pin Mill

 Flatford Bridge

Lottie's first walk at Flatford

Van-Man studied the weather forecast and suggested going to Flatford Mill where John Constable painted the Hay Wain and four of his other paintings. It was further than our other outings but it was an easy drive around Ipswich. When leaving the main road for Flatford we found a one way system in operation, important on the single track lanes.

Flatford Lock

unchanged since Constable?

There were several walks around Flatford but we took a path from Flatford Bridge alongside the river. It passed Flatford Lock, the scene of one of his paintings and then we were able to let Lottie run around off the lead as most people were on the other side of the river. Lottie enjoyed exploring. Below the lock was a portage pontoon for canoeists whichVan-Man stood on to take photos. 

Heading to the place the Hay Wain was painted

old dry dock for boat building and repairs

houses near the Hay Wain

Site of the Hay Wain from a different angle

Display showing how trees had changed the view

Lottie went down onto it and slipped into the water beside it for a drink and to cool down as it was already getting warm. However there was a shelf beyond which the water became deep. She put her front paw down and plunged head first into the river then had to swim for the bank. Being deep chested this doesn’t come naturally but she extracted herself from the water without our help.

Boats at  Pin Mill.

River Orwell mud flats

We followed it to some large sluices over the river and then explored a side path which led to a shallow ford. Lottie went in to drink so her unexpected immersion did not upset her too much.

Looking over to  Pin Mill.

 Pin Mill's ducks

We returned to Flatford. We were delayed crossing Flatford Bridge by the local farmer reversing his tractor towing a cattle trailer onto it. Once parked the farmer opened the field gate then blocked off the footpath, so the cows could only enter the field. They soon left the truck and spread out in their new field. I was impressed how the farmer reversed his trailer round the corner onto the narrow bridge but I guess her had lots of practise. Van-Man complimented him on his skill.

We walked along the other side of the river to where the Hay Wain was painted. It looked somehow familiar and yet wrong. Finally we entered the painting exhibition which not only showed prints of Constables work but also showed how the scenery had changed since Constables day on his main paintings, mostly by the growth of trees. It was interesting to see the prints having just walked around Flatford.

We went back to our motor home, which we have nick-named Sally, for lunch. After lunch Van-Man suggested going to Pin Mill on the river Orwell where there was a nature reserve. However it seemed that parking was scarce there so we headed to Cholmondistan hoping to park there and walk over to Pin Mill as it was in the direction of our campsite.

Live aboard barges - high and dry

I navigated there easily and we found a free village car park with plenty of space to park Sally. While Van-Man lock up wondering how we would find the way I wandered over to a local information sign with a map. We were parked opposite a footpath to Pin Mill.

large boats

We set out past the church in overcast conditions wearing coats. Within five minutes the clouds cleared and we plodded on in sunshine. We soon grew hot and had to carry the coats. It took 15 minutes to walk to Pin Mill across fields. The hamlet was centred on the river which was home to sailing vessels and barges. There was a pub, art studio and a common where locals could leave their dinghies. There were several artists painting the various scenes of rover and boats.

and small ones at  Pin Mill common

Lottie enjoyed this area. Before we left the village she found the fresh water stream flowing past the common. She waded in to cool off and drink. We followed the footpath upstream towards Ipswich around the sailing club then along the river bank. There were boats stored everywhere. Eventually the path left the river so we turned around. Lottie enjoyed this walk and sniffed around happily without going onto the mud revealed by low tide. There were ducks with exotic plumage here but they seemed at home on the mud flats. Back at Pin Mill we looked at the artists at work from a discrete distance and Lottie had a second cool down in the stream.

Lottier cooling off in the stream

As we headed back up the hill to Cholmondistan and Sally the clouds came back making it less hot climbing through the meadow. Our drove back to the campsite followed the river Orwell and under the massive road bridge spanning the river estuary.

The campsite was bathed in sunshine so Van-Man and Lottie sat out until dinner time.

Languard Fort and Sutton Hoo

The approach to Felixstowe

Felixstowe Harbour

The wind was gusting this morning but the van stayed still protected by the hedges.

“Let’s go to Felixstowe,” Van-Man decided. However he drove to Languard Fort instead of the town, and found it easily by fallowing my instructions with only one “are you sure.” 
Once parked, we walked around the outside of the fort allowing Lottie to run around before going inside.

Entering Languard Fort

Inside the fort looking at entrance arch

The fort faced the sea channel so we watched the ships moving in and out of Felixstowe and Harwich. 

As we circled the fort open heath land lay to the rear delighting Lottie’s nose even though she had to stay leashed.
At last we entered Languard Fort which was in excellent condition. Its history spanned the 17^th to 20^th century. All floors and areas were accessible and there were many exhibits on display from different eras.

Buildings on the outer wall

The fort had small guns

Lottie enjoyed looking around the outside but didn’t wish to linger in the tunnels and magazine areas which were built into the massive walls. Instead she led us speedily through some of the displays. However there was so much to see including the giant cogs working the fort clock. 
It started to rain as we left the fort so we had a leisurely lunch in the van which sat out of the way in the corner of the car park then debated what to do next.

...and large ones

The clock works

We decided to try and find Kyson Hill which offered views over the estuary near Woodbridge, but there was no signage to it and the roads in its direction were single track so we abandoned it and went to Sutton Hoo instead. 

This was where the burial of a complete Viking ship was found. We arrived just as the rain began easing. By the time we had parked up the rain had stopped. 

Viking ship burial mound

Rare breed of sheep at Sutton Hoo

Sadly the new displays in the museum, including the replica of the Viking ship, were not open for viewing until the end of June. We set out on the circular walk around the burial grounds which was also home to some rare breeds of sheep. The site of the boat burial was high above the estuary below. What a difficult task to drag the boat up this hill.

The long boat sculpture (unfinished)

Bluebells on the river view walk

After looking at the full size Viking ship sculpture which was still under construction, we sat on the veranda outside the cafe having coffee. Then we went on the river view circular walk. This wound through bluebell woods which were in flower and gave good views of the river and Woodbridge. Lottie’s nose was twitching and while we surveyed the view she attached a dead branch and chewed it. The tide was out so boats lay keeled over on the mud. The sun came out making the water sparkle.

first glimpse of the river

River estuary

As we walked back towards the cafe a small herd of about ten fallow deer ran across the path behind us. Lottie swivelled round swiftly but as she was on the lead she stood and stared at them as they bounded into the undergrowth, disappointed not to be able to chase them. No there is no photo, Van_man was too slow.

Strangely Van-Man turned the wrong way out of Sutton Hoo and had to do a 360 at a roundabout to return to the campsite where we had a quiet evening.

Leighton Abbey

Leighton Abbey 

Houses at Leighton Abbey 

The wind gained strength in the night and blustered over us. The van moved occasionally but we slept snugly.

The Chapel

Part of the main Chancel

Abbey cottages

Chapel half hidden behind Abbey walls

Lottie leads the way

“I’m not taking the van out in this,” Van-Man muttered as the van rocked in the wind. He set about cooking breakfast as a staying in treat. I enjoyed the bacon and eggs even though I had to wash up afterwards. On the way back from the wash up facilities I stopped to chat to a van owner that was preparing to move off.

“We’ll be all right,” she said stoically. “Its worse back home in Yorkshire.” Brave people, I’d hate to be wafted around by the wind and passing Lorries.

We had lovely hot showers and relaxed reading until lunch. Lottie was happy to lie inside after using the dog exercise area.

After eating the wind dropped and the sun appeared.

Brick was used due to lack of local stone 

imposing window arch

“We need milk,” Van-Man said. “Let’s walk to the village.”

We found a footpath and followed it after checking the map hoping for a circular walk to the shop at the far end of the village. It led round onto the edge of the heath land and then down a lane to the main road.

“Which way’s the shop?” Van-Man wondered.

“That way,” I said as two children licking ice creams came around the corner.

We got back to the van as a heavy shower started after a lovely walk.

However the weather soon cleared and the wind abated so Van-Man took the van out after all. He decided to visit the Abbey remains in Leighton.

The remains were extensive, much of it in good condition. There were cottages that could be hired for a visit. Nearby the Chapel (one of two side chapel) had been re-roofed so that it could be used for special services. It stayed sunny throughout our visit. Part of the Abbey featured brick work. This unusual feature was explained as necessary due to the lack of local stone in the area. The checkerboard walls of the later built Priors house showed that the monks were wealthy landowners with status.

Lottie enjoyed sniffing around even though she had to remain on the lead. At one point when Van-Man was taking photos Lottie lay down and sunned herself. 


Thankfully the wind remained moderate for the drive back to the camp site.

checkerboard walls

imposing ruin

Once back she lay outside our van. She came in for her dinner but went back outside until it became chilly.