Boat cleaning again

After Paul had applied a second pre-coat to his repair work on the yellow paint we set off towards the marina. The morning started fine and sunny but as we cruised towards Rugely it deteriorated. The fluffy clouds blocking the sun built and mingled with the white water vapour rising from the cooling towers at Rugely’s power station. Paul hurried to paint the yellow before the weather worsened as it looked as if rain was on the way. Job done he came inside for lunch.
The rain did not materialise so we cruised back to Handacre less than an hour from base. I noticed a disturbing trend here amongst the invisible dog owners. Who else could have carefully put their dog waste in a bag then twirled it through the air so that the bags caught on branches of overhanging trees or flew over the fence into the land next to the towpath. What a filthy habit, hardly friendly to the environment. Perhaps it is the act of one local dog owner, but over weeks the bags add up.
Once safely moored at Handacre Paul drank a cup of tea to fortify him for the task ahead. Here the towpath was on the other side so he dug out his shampoo and washed the other side of the boat, so that it is clean from front to back.

Nest Building Swans

lovely mooring

After walking Lottie I concentrated on cleaning the inside of the boat while Paul sorted our wood supply out and checked the engine. He then touched up the blacking where the boat had scraped on dodgy pilings through the Caldon’s narrow bridges and then tackled the rust spots, rubbing down and applying red oxide. Lottie snoozed in the sun.

Bridge at Great Hayward canal junction

We set off for Great Haywood at 11.15 with a steady stream of traffic heading our way. As Paul cast off a narrow boat roared round the corner so he had to hold it on the middle rope. We followed the racing boat gradually falling behind but glimpsing it in the distance.



Swans building nest

“No point rushing,” Paul said. “There will be a queue at the Sandon lock. There were 3 boats waiting, so our measured pace saved us standing on the bank holding the boat for maybe 10 minutes. We reached the head of the queue half an hour later. Fast narrow boat stopped for lunch while we cruised past taking it in turns to eat our sandwiches.

Team work

Unsurprisingly it caught up with us as we queued for the next lock. It flew around the corner and bounced nose first straight into the bank – not the usual method of coming to a halt. They turned the lock round swiftly and pursued us to Hoo Mill lock. At Great Hayward junction Paul filled with water sending me to the farm shop for their home made ice creams – a welcome treat in the sunshine.

Breaking reeds

Having to go further to find reeds

We moored after the junction, opposite a pair of nesting swans. Where else can you get so close to nature and watch in comfort? They worked as a team building a nest in the reeds She broke off reeds where she was building her nest and wove them into the structure. The male broke off reeds further from the nest and ferried them over to his beloved, waiting until she took each proffered reed. It was a rare treat for us to watch especially as Lottie ignored them. She has also ignored the sheep who have filled the fields with their lambs but we won’t trust her off the lead. Because of the sheep there was only one place where Lottie could run free today but she made the most of it, running for pleasure. Naturally afterwards she took a dip in the canal to cool down after all her exertion. At the junction she put her front feet on the parapet of the bridge and admired the view.

Moored opposite the swan's reed bed

Boat cleaning

Lottie relaxing on the rear deck

As the weather is fine we decided to take our time returning to base and work on the boat. First we cruised to charge the batteries. Most of the locks were in our favour so we made good time. At one idyllic lock an old man sat in his disabled buggy reading his newspaper. As we left he followed, his buggy coping well with the uneven ground. He overtook us as we worked the next lock and disappeared into Stone at a gentle walking pace. The boat crew behind us seemed in a great hurry but they fell behind as they had to refill the locks to follow us. I was sad to see that the beautiful canal-side art at the locks had been vandalised. In spite of the attacks the stone structures were still beautiful.

Mooring in Stone

We moored in the centre of Stone, shopped had lunch then moved on to start work on the boat. In spite of stopping to work we cruised for 4 hours today.

We found a quiet spot apart from the sheep baaing in a nearby field. I took her for a walk and she found a lambs leg. Further on were less gruesome remains –the poor creatures tail. Was this the remains of a fox’s lunch? Farmers have so much to content with it’s surprising that they ever make a profit.

sheep everywhere

Afterwards we cleaned the paintwork. I concentrated on the bow and stern, Paul tackled the roof and side and Lottie roamed around keeping an eye on us as if she were in charge. As we finished cleaning a tractor started ploughing the field opposite. It was interesting to watch but we moved the boat round the corner where it was more peaceful.

 

Homeward bound

Lottie exploring by the locks

I walked Lottie along to the lock past the towpath closed sign hoping to beat the workmen’s arrival. I didn’t but I called to them and asked if I could come past and they waved me through. After checking nobody was coming up I opened the top lock and waited.

Paul had trouble getting past the towpath works as the working barge had swung across the canal. By the time they had straightened it out another boat had caught him up. We flew down the five Stockton Brook locks as the first two were in our favour and an up-coming boat set the next. Lottie enjoyed exploring the locks as if she remembered Stoke lay ahead.

Pheasant strutting

At the first lift bridge a boater coming towards up held it open for us but I had to work the second one. It takes ages turning the windlass, a perfect build up for my muscles.

Soon afterwards we saw a kestrel hovering beside the canal. As we drew parallel it plummeted and rose again with a small rodent hanging from its talons. How do they spot such small prey from up there? Today we were struck by the strange sight of a bottle kiln poking through the roof of a building. surely it was built first then the building added later.

Unusual bottle kiln protruding through roof

To my embarrassment my husband had no trouble working the Ivy Lift Bridge where I had struggled to raise and lower the barriers. I thought being tall would make it easy but he is only a couple of inches taller than me so obviously it is his technique that is superior. On reaching the bridge by the park we found the graffiti had been transformed by local art work.

We cruised for four hours in total arriving at the staircase lock with it set for us. However at the bottom all the moorings were full. Hungrily Paul filled with water while I made the corned beef sandwiches.

We joined the Trent and Mersey canal and reversed away from the lock to moor for lunch. 

Bridge brightening

Some lads were paddling canoes nearby, what a fun thing to do in the holidays. Suddenly there was a bang and strange noises coming from the rear of the boat. One of the boys had thought it fun to paddle under our rear fender and had got his canoe wedged between the fender and the rudder which lies hidden in the water. After wriggling, pushing and almost capsizing his craft the small canoe popped free of the rudder half full with water. Its young owner was red faced when I asked him what he was doing. After all there was lots of water to paddle through without cuddling the rear of a narrow boat. 

Unfortunately this disturbed Lottie and she didn’t settle down again so after only forty minutes we headed into our next lock. 

Ponies resting

We sped down this flight as well, meeting boats as they exited the locks. Lottie found a large chunk of muck which she ate much to Paul’s dismay. What goes in must come out so we have a smelly evening ahead of us. The windows will be needed for ventilation. After that she lay down in the stern literally keeping a low profile but the locks were concrete affairs that wouldn’t interest her anyway.

At our final lock of the day she perked up and explored the woods which lay to one side of the lock while I worked it.

This overnight mooring is rustic with ponies grazing peacefully in the fields. Lottie was excited but they remained peaceful as she was taken inside and not allowed loose to chase them. The moon shone through clear skies making this a beautiful evening.

 

High winds

View from the aqueduct

Lottie woke us at6.30 to go out and use the dog toilet.

After breakfast we were ready to move off with blue sky and sunshine ahead but ominous dark clouds were building to our left. Paul decided to wait out the squall as his forecast suggested gusts of up to 30 miles per hour.

Canal side cottages

Windy views

Just before nine the clouds cleared and the wind dropped so we set out for Leek. The first minute took us over the aqueduct with stunning views along the valley. The cruise continued with lovely views back down the Caldon as the canal clung to the edge of the hill. We passed a boater with a rescue dog that barks at everyone and she waved merrily while her dog loudly told us to keep moving.

Tranquil out of the wind

Leek tunnel was so different from Froghall tunnel with loads of head room, but Paul struggled to get the bow into the tunnel as the wind had started to blow strongly again. By the time he reached the winding hole it was gale force. It spite of that he wound successfully and then tried to reverse past two moored boats to moor. The wind swept down the hill and pinned our boat to the bank as if we had tied up. It would not budge. While we were still stuck against the side of the winding hole another boat turned. Fortunately it was a wide winding hole and we were right up one end.

The end of the canal

As the wind eased Paul reversed back past the first moored boat but as he approached the second the wind gusted strongly.

The gap between the boats seemed big enough for our boat so Paul let the wind blow him over. He slid sideways into the tight gap perfectly without touching either boat using wind power with our side acting like a sail.

winding waterway

We had a pleasant walk along the river from the disused aqueduct at the end of the Leek arm and managed to stock up on edibles.

Lottie settled down for a long sleep before I could clear the sofa of our magazines. Why choose to sleep on top of things when the other sofa was empty? 

Lottie sleeping

After a long lunch break the wind dropped again so we set off back towards the junction. Lottie wanted to walk but rejoining the boat at the tunnel entrance took some nifty steering from Paul.

unusual tower seen from the canal

The return journey was sunny but the wind started to gust again.  We caught another narrow boat at the aqueduct as he dropped his crew. The crew woman hurried down the steps to set the locks for her boat before it cruised round to the top of them, but I doubt if it saved them much time. Due to them stopping ahead of us our loopy Lurcher jumped onto the bank, but for the first time I failed to follow her. A large water rat watched her from the far bank whiskers twitching. It was the biggest and healthiest rat I’ve ever seen, but most stay concealed in the grass. Lottie ran on ahead and waited where we had been moored this morning as if waiting for us to pull over. When we cruised past she ran after us barking, her way of asking to get back on the boat. She jumped back on as soon as we neared her bank and settled down on the back deck.


There were not many boats moving today so it was unfortunate to meet one at an awkward bridge hole on a corner. I couldn’t reverse up as the CaRT boats were moored by the bridge and there was no room for a boat to pass between me and them. The other boater reversed... and got stuck. The rear of the boat was aground but the front floated around and blocked the canal. The other boater pushed off with her barge pole giving me room to slide past.

Today was a no locking day as we moored above the Stockton Brook flight of five in a surprisingly rural spot. Tomorrow we will face the concrete of Stoke on Trent.

Old Fashioned Power



Train rolling backwards down the slope

I gave Lottie a walk to the basin then we set off, unsure of what the weather would do. Paul had to reverse to the winding hole but it although it was within sight the bow swung towards the bank. I pushed off from the bank, nearly sliding into the canal and Paul swung the boat round. 

Consall Forge Station

As we headed out of Froghall a steam train came down the valley pulling a goods van and coaches. As Froghall is the end of its short line we expected to soon be overtaken. It was an age before we heard the whistle but it didn’t appear. Paul worked the first lock which stood beside the track camera slung round his neck. Twice we heard the whistle but the train didn’t appear.

Passing under the platform

After opening the lock we lingered...steam appeared round the corner. Paul leaned forward keen to get a close look at the tank engine’s big brother in steam. It rounded the bend and started up the incline towards us, then disappeared backwards round the corner. 

Steam train finally appears

Had it lost grip on the incline or had the driver reversed on purpose? We couldn’t tell. We carried on cruising waiting for the big steam train to overtake us but it didn’t reappear. As our boat chugged below Consall Forge where the boater can look through the supports of the cantilevered platform I thought it would be a wonderful place to be overtaken but the train didn’t come.

We moored for water at the lime kilns expecting it to rumble past but the only sound was the river running alongside.



Strangely shaped hill

Two locks later we were approaching Cheddleton station at the top end of the line when it crept quietly out of the tree line as if ashamed. Husband delighted at the close encounter we stopped for lunch opposite the station where a diesel was moving some rolling stock on the sidings. However I was struck by the strangely shaped hill behind the sidings which looked like a partly peeled orange. Surely this was man made?

Steam train departing

Just before we set off the large steam train puffed out a large cloud and bid us farewell with a jaunty toot-toot. It disappeared down the incline and we headed the opposite way towards Cheddleton, meeting the boaters that had helped us up the staircase lock back at Etruria.

From their wide smiles they were enjoying the Caldon canal.



 

Inside the mill

Cheddleton locks were swiftly climbed and we arrived at Cheddleton Flint mill which sits nestling the canal. This time the mill was open and the majestic water wheels were turning. This mill has a pair of water wheels working opposite each other. The mill also had other steam machines on display and the workers cottage was open. The rooms were tiny yet families were large. there was not flushing toilet no running water and light came from candles. It was a portal to an earlier way of life when many people relied on mills to provide work and various goods. I find the steady sound and sight of the water wheel calming.

inside the cottage

Continuing our journey in damp and cold conditions soon the Leek arm appeared clinging to the opposite hill. Naturally we could not see the canal but boats moored at intervals gave its course away.

steam engine

This part of the Caldon canal is unusual as the Leek arm crossed over us on a sturdy stone aqueduct. In order to join the Leek arm we had to climb three more locks to reach its junction. The weather was threatening rain and dark clouds were gathering but as so often happens on the canals we had to press on up the locks to reach mooring.

One of the locks had a leaky wall that squirted water through our open bathroom window. Thankfully it doesn’t take much to mop up the bathroom floor.

on the Leek arm

We completed the top lock and turned sharply onto the Leek arm. It’s hard to hurry a narrow boat but the race was on to moor before we got soaked. As the Leek arm runs above the locks we had just climbed I was impressed by how much height we had gained through them. Normally I am unaware of how far our boat has climbed but looking down at where we had been less than an hour before was amazing. We moored before the aqueduct and made it inside before the rain lashed down.

After the storm passed we were cocooned in silence in the rural beauty seven miles from the urban sprawl of Stoke on Trent. It felt days from civilization.

 

Steam and the Steep Steps

Tank engine reversing

I set off on foot walking Lottie past Cheddleton Flint mill and the nearby locks. Having admired the view I turned back and set the locks for our boat. Lottie enjoyed sniffing round every part of each lock investigating every space. 



scenic station

Locks swiftly descended we carried on to Cheddleton Steam Railway where there was a vacant mooring adjacent to the station. By the time we had moored steam was rising from a tank engine in the siding. Armed with dog and camera we strolled over to investigate. There were no scheduled trains for today but the station was open. We walked round and were in time to see the tank engine set off down the track. The open gateway led to the clean and pretty platform with ticket office and waiting room that could have been built for a film set. 

Kitchen car

From behind the barriers we could see much of the rolling stock. There were two steam trains and several large diesels. There were plush first class carriages containing seating with padded arm rests. Further along were Spartan but function second class carriages where the bench seating had thin arm rests and plain tables. There was a restaurant car and a kitchen car which struck us as unusual. The whole area was bright with painted woodwork and 

Guards van

flowers blooming in well weeded beds.

Steam engine passes our boat

We cruised parallel to the railway track for a few minutes then met our next lock. It was soon dealt with, but Lottie was slow returning to the boat as she had so many interesting corners to sniff. On clearing the lock we saw the tank engine returning so Paul stood on our handy gas locker to get a better view and photograph it. As the steam trains only run on Sundays we are unlikely to take a trip on one but at least we saw the tank engine in action.

Lime kilns

As the trees and bushes were just starting to burst into leaf we could see across to the hills and valleys unhindered by the hedge line. The next lock took us onto the river which twisted and turned between the steep sided hills. We moored at the lime kilns just before the river and canal parted company.

Lottie and the checkered art

Lunch over, Lottie was keen to explore so we let her lead the way. She inspected some local tiled art then started up some steps so we followed expecting them to lead to the top of the lime kilns. They did, but we turned a corner and another flight of steps appeared. After that another - we kept going up and up. The map mentions devils staircase and it felt as if we were on it. Up up up! Surely this path must go somewhere amazing for someone to build all these steps. We reached the top far above the trees. We found a beautiful meadow climbing still higher. We trekked to the top. The view was amazing looking down on so many trees. Somewhere far below was our little boat hidden by the trees on the sheer slope. The reason for building the steep staircase to connect the canal with a meadow far from any sight of housing  remains a mystery.

Up and up

After catching our breath we set off back to the boat. I counted over 200 steps but the descent was easy.

After a comfort break we left our mooring. Soon we passed a pub perched on the hill far from the road. It was packed with walkers even though some had only trekked from the car park on the far side of the river.

The top of the Lime kilns

We rounded a bend and the canal narrowed and squeezed along a stone wall. Above was the railway station of Consall Forge whose waiting room was built cantilevered over the canal so that we looked through the wooden foundations at the railway tracks. Station left behind we descended our last lock where the profile of Froghall tunnel was hanging over the exit. If you can pass below it you can pass through the tunnel. Our boat caught the corners of the profile so if we ventured into the tunnel, crouching as we steered, we might become wedged tight. Unsurprisingly Paul decided he wanted his boat intact!

Still going up

On that final part of the cruise to Froghall we met a narrow boat as the canal tapered to single boat width. Paul squeezed to the bank and the other boat slid by as we grated on the bottom. If we had met round the corner someone would have had to reverse – no easy feat in a narrow boat.

On reaching Froghall Paul passed the winding hole as the map showed it directly in front of the tunnel. He had to reverse to the moorings which he did expertly- it does help that there was no wind.

After a day exploring at every opportunity Lottie still wanted to drag us round Froghall as soon as we moored up. Obviously she has missed her narrow boat adventures over the winter. 



Out in the open but not at the top

We went to look at the basin beyond the tunnel. The restored basin was lovely but we were disappointed not to be able to follow the canal on foot towards Uttoxeter. Instead we found the end of the Churnett valley railway. After all the walking today the crew are rather tired.

Stone and Flint



Stone art at Stockton locks

At 6.30 Lottie demanded an early morning excursion. Paul was not amused but struggled out of bed and took her out. At 8.15 instead of letting him eat his breakfast she took him out on a second walk but he got his own back by taking her into the village on a lead to find the local shops. She was relieved to get back to the canal away from the traffic. After breakfast we took a short cruise to a mooring by the newly discovered shops and bought more supplies. Then we cruised on enjoying good weather and lovely views.



Beautiful but dangerous

There were two lift bridges but they only required a windlass to work them so I had no problem – and no audience. We moored for lunch after our first flight of locks which were decorated by substantial stone work. Sadly the local vandals had defaced the work, one with red paint, the other had china pots inlaid and these had been smashed . I understand them attacking the crumbling concrete bridges, and sometimes graffiti brightens those dire areas up but this seemed petty.

Our second set of locks lay where the Leek arm turns off to the right. Strangely it then crosses the canal on a massive stone aqueduct after the main branch has done the three locks.



Cheddleton Flint Mill from the canal



water wheel

When I pushed the gate open I must have been addled by the glorious scenery as I nearly fell down the flight of stone steps into the muddy canal below the lowest lock. I stumbled down three steps and managed to grab the stone wall as I missed the next. I escaped with a scraped finger but it could have been worse. I could have been knocked unconscious then fallen into the water unnoticed by my husband who had popped inside the boat.



We passed some Canada geese, but one had a longer neck almost like a swan and had slightly different markings.  Perhaps it was a crossbreed - a Canada sweese! The cruise was slow and idyllic. Our mooring for the night was by Cheddleton water Mill. It is a lovely mill well worth a visit.  Hopefully it will be working when we return at the weekend.

The mill, crane and cottages