Sunny Shardlow

Shardlow

We set off at 8.30 while it was still cool. 20 mins later we stopped for water, we need lots while its so hot for long cool showers. The sheep below the lock had all laid down in the shade of a giant willow tree, so I knew we were in for another scorcher. By 11 the temperature was soaring and we had reached Shardlow which used to be a bustling inland port.

Beautiful old loading bay

Now the only boats around are pleasure boats but the old mellow brick buildings are lovely. We passed through the Shardlow flood locks and cruised past the mouth of the Derwent. How wide the river seemed after the canal. Third Time Lucky surged forward as if enjoying the good depth of water under her.

The Malt Shovel  Pub at Shardlow

We moored in Sawley Cut for a lazy lunch. I stayed in the boat with a cool breeze flowing through it but Paul washed the boat. Lottie also went wandering along the tow path fulfilling the saying “Only Mad Dogs and Englishmen go out in the Noon day Sun.” Eventually we set off and worked our way through 2 locks the first being automated. The afternoon cruise was pleasant winding between reed beds and willow trees. I worked the 3^rd lock and we moored in Beeston next to a grassy bank. Lottie spent the evening in the shade of a willow tree.

Hot cruising

Canal near Burton upon Trent

It was already hot when we set off at 8.50, so perhaps global warming does exist after all. A hire boater sprinted past as I set off for the lock walking Lottie. The boat slammed into the piling and one crew member jumped off and wrestled it over with a rope while the rest of the crew watched. After he had tied it up the crew sauntered to the lock. It was interesting watching them work the lock, although they had 5 crew on the job they hung around until the captain of the boat bawled orders from his sanctuary on the stern. Third Time Lucky appeared as they opened the bottom gates. At the sight of an approaching boat the crew scampered onto the boat leaving the paddles raised.

Heron fishing  by the tail of a lock

I helped the single hander up but like most solo boaters he worked the lock slickly. After a hot cruise through Burton upon Trent Paul worked the next lock while I waited in the shade. After that I relaxed in the shade of a parasol while Paul drove. This part of the canal boasted many water birds from lanky herons to petite Moor hens with their tiny chicks. They hid along the reeds and overgrown banks, the young cheeping black bundles of black fluff on stilts. Mid day we moored in shade at Willington until the heat died down, but wandered into the village for an ice cream.

Duck with unusual golden chick

We moved off with the day still hot and arrived at our first double lock as a single hander opened it. I told him he could get back on his boat and I’d work the gates not realising this lock was super deep at over 12 foot. The gates were massive but as I wondered how I would open it a passing walker stopped to help. A true English gentleman responding to my distress, and it took the 2 of us to move it. I let Paul work the next lock and then we moored up in the shade.

canal side carved bench

The only other boat there was a hire boat, and the occupants were on an extended holiday from California. They were strangely suffering from the heat. California may be hotter than England but they were used to having air conditioning blasting out. Hire boats don’t have that facility though if you moor right you can get a breeze blowing through the front doors and out the back of the boat. Unfortunately their boat didn’t have any doors or opening at the front so it must have been cooking inside.

Heading north east

 Lottie Lurcher chills while a boat rises



Ducks resting in a row

After a sultry night we left base at 8.30 hoping to work through the Fradley locks before it got too hot. These locks were not as deep as the ones to the North but took longer to fill. It soon became hot but there was not much lock work to be done as people were coming towards us at most locks so gates could be left open. One lock gate reopened as soon as I walked away and I had to close it again. Fortunately the boater coming up whizzed a paddle up as the opposite gate had started to open too. It must be tricky for one man boaters, they can’t do both things simultaneously. I sheltered from the sun in the front of the boat under a large umbrella as I get itchy skin even with sun block and piriton. One wag chirped “is it raining over there?” I may look strange but I prefer to be itch free. Even Lottie, our sun worshipping hound, found it too hot. Instead of indulging her sport of chasing ducks she left them lined up on a rail and paddled up and down the side wash to cool down. We found a shady mooring in Alrewas to have lunch and chill out until it cooled down outside.

The river section at Alrewas

After 3 hours it was a little cooler so we set off again. The next lock took us down onto the river section which was could have been the setting for The Wind in the Willows. Not only were there graceful willows lining the banks but the reed beds whispered in the light breeze. The hot sunshine brought out the dragonflies. One type had feathery turquoise wings and looked more like butterflies as they darted through the reeds and buzzed the boat.

lazing on the river below Alrewas

The water was crystal clear so the long roots of the yellow water lilies were revealed and the grass like water weeds created a swaying forest for tiny fish to dart through. A bigger fish leapt out of the water by the bow, a streak of silver. All too soon the magical meanders led us to the next lock, which we worked lazily conserving our cool in over 28 degrees, only 2 degrees cooler than Spain. Tomorrow will be ever hotter.



Art thrives under the bridges

The contrast to the river was startling. The canal ran arrow straight alongside a noisy road but the birds tried to entertain us as we passed. Because of the intense heat the shade under the bridges was a welcome respite from the sun. After an hour of traffic noise and another lock peace returned. We moored for the night at Branston (the pickle place) next to a large lake. Lottie enjoyed a paddle at the dog pool provided but showed no interest in chasing the wildfowl.



Shugborough delight

Shugborough Hall from the canal




Essex bridge, the footbridge to Shugborough Hall

Essex bridge

As we are within distance of base we decided to strike for home. There were only 6 locks to do so it was a relaxing morning. Lottie missed her morning of locking and asked for a walk mid day. Paul obliged. They will both go home for a rest. We walked across an amazing old stone bridge into the grounds of Shugborough Hall and wandered round some of the park.




Great Haywood lock

We entered Haywood lock without queuing for the first time. Often we wait for over an hour here as it is on a busy junction. We were helped through the lock by a cheerful lad who said he lived on the canals although he had no boat. Well there are worse places to camp.




feed us please

A swan with cygnets swam close to us as our boat passed them demanding food, their necks reaching onto our deck. Woken from her snooze Lottie barked at them enraging the cob. He chased our boat for over a mile pecking at the rear fender as if determined to chase away the noisy trouble maker. Lottie doesn’t realise how dangerous an angry swan could be but I kept her inside out of harms way. Paul had to increase his speed to get rid of the enraged parent. Hopefully Lottie will learn to leave swans alone.




enjoy don't rush

 

We started the day being rocked badly by a hire boater speeding past. A mile further on we passed him waiting impatiently while his partner carried two bulging shopping bags. Mr Speedy  soon caught us up and crowded our stern but we had arrived at the Canal and River Trust works with working craft in the canal and had to advance slowly as directed by the signs for the next mile. Paul slowed even more for a manoevering barge and Mr Speedy  shot alongside us straight into the barges path and rammed it. The CART men were amazed at his stupidity but nobody was hurt due to the skill of the CART operatives. Guys like Mr Speedy give hire boaters a bad name but  most hire boaters are careful and sociable, and bad helmsmen are often privateers. Mr Speedy didn’t learn but caught us up as we approached the next lock. A CART boat was emerging so Paul slowed right up, but Mr Speedy drew alongside. Somehow the bulky CART boat was squeezed between us and Mr Speedy's boat sending us onto the shallows. Fortunately we didn’t stick and made it into the lock. Later we met his partner at the locks and he was charming. After we moored up within sight of the next lock we watched some new hire boaters tackle it. It was highly entertaining to see the men huddled round the boat sharing the driving, 1 on throttle and 1 steering and 1 in command, while the 4 ladies did the hard work of locking. It shows that deep inside those men knew the lasses had bigger muscles than them.

Return through the Harecastle Tunnel

Hills beyond the Cheshire locks

We locked down steadily as the temperature rose enjoying the peaceful Cheshire hills. We stopped early at Rode Heath for a dog walk through bunny land and an ice cream as it is lovely mooring there.

Des res on the Trent and Mersey

In the morning we continued locking down towards the tunnel. We had to raise the paddles slowly as the locks were vicious and sucked the boat forwards suddenly if we raised them too fast. Twice we had to lower the paddles to stop the boat hurtling towards the gates. Sometimes slower is quicker! We reached the tunnel in brilliant sunshine with a half hour wait for passage through.

Only a few locks to go before the tunnel



Harecastle Tunnel's North Portal

The wait soon passed as 2 plastic bath tubs turned up. One guy had only owned his 2 days and didn’t know what to do. The tunnel keeper explained how the roof of the tunnel gets lower inside and he should remove his wind screen to avoid damaging it. He didn’t have any tools but Paul lent him a ratchet the right size. The boater handed it back reluctantly as he needed one to replace the windscreen as the canopy attaches to it. The canopy space is important on tiny cruisers. He also needed a working spotlight and horn neither of which he had. The tunnel keeper lent him a horn in case he broke down and the other boater helped him rig up an interior light outside to guide him through the tunnel. By the time they had done all that the convoy from the other end had arrived and we were sent on our way directly behind the plastic boater with temporary light as petrol boats have to lead the way. Three quarters of the way through the tunnel his light failed and he must have hit the tunnel wall and turned sideways. Paul caught him up but he turned the boat and made it out of the tunnel without assistance. I guess he had even more combat wounds on his already battered cruiser but at least his engine kept going. We stopped at Westport Lake as it is a lovely mooring and took Lottie for a walk round it. It was bustling with local people walking their dogs and letting their children cycle in a safe place yet there was room for everybody to relax.

Lock queues

It was supposed to rain all day so we started out at 6.40 as it was still dry. Our early wake up  was due to Lottie who seems to stir with the birdsong. The rain started after an hour but it wasn’t heavy for long. We moored up by Big lock to go shopping for essentials.

Balance beam, paddle gear and foot bridge on the Cheshire flight

We moved off after lunch as the weather cheered up, straight into a queue for the next lock. We were only 2^nd in the queue but 2 boats came round the corner minutes after we stopped. It took ages to get the first boat through the lock as it was leaking so badly that the pounds above had drained and a boat was sitting trapped on the bottom. We tried to sort it out BW style but 2 guys further back in the queue decided they knew better than us so we left them to it. They made us wait in the first lock for ages until the pound above was full and filled the pound to the brim. By the time I edged the boat out water was flowing over the towpath and lock gates, what a waste of time and water. Naturally the pound above had lost gallons of water doing that making the problem worse. After partially filling the second pound we got through the muddy level without being becalmed, and then made steady progress as the other pounds were fine.

Domestic Geese

Nobody caught us up or passed us after we moored up. Everything was quiet apart from the occasional honk form the local geese. Perhaps the other boaters were stuck there all evening filling and refilling the pounds. We were glad to clear the locks as the flight was rumoured to be closing for repairs the next day. It rained on and off for the last 3 locks but not too bad considering the forecast for heavy rain all day.

Return to the Trent and Mersey



asymmetric swing bridge

The shiy narrow boat got away bang on 9.00 but we dawdled and showered. Moved off 9.30 found water point and filled our tank. We reached Sattersford Lock to find 2 narrow boats waiting.

 The lock gates opened just before 11.00 and we went up moored as a trio with the largest boat on the inside. We could have got another 9 narrow boats to join us , the lock was so vast.



The Anderton Lift from below

As our boat is only 40 foot our bow was not level with the other boats. The lady on the black boat next to us was concerned our rope would damage her new cratch cover so held it down while the lock filled.

The shiny narrow boat then charged off as she had a booking on the Anderton lift. It rained as we reached Anderton but we moored up and booked our passage. At 1.40 we ascended in tipping rain so we moored up at the top.



looking into the other tank as we reach the top

The lower reaches



in wide lock

We went down through the wide locks apparently the narrower ones haven’t been in use for nearly 40 years. We had to wait quite a while for the 1^st lock due to water conservation issues. It leaked badly so had to have 2 boats top and bottom to work it as it uses so much water.









Disused lock into the Manchester Ship Canal

We had a peaceful cruise between the locks accompanied by birdsong. At one place the trees had fallen down the steep hillside like nine pins just missing one that leaned crazily towards the horizon with it's roots loosened. We found mooring for lunch then carried on down as the wind rose.




 

Looking across the ship canal

We cruised past a giant ICI works the plant was almost 2 miles long and goodness knows how deep. We reached a low bridge near the far end and turned then moored at the lock down into the Manchester Ship Canal to look around. The lock  appeared derelict with frayed planks on all its gates. I wonder when it was last used? Our ancient guide book said a passage through could be booked so maybe 10 years ago or maybe yesterday.





Mooring at the lock

We enjoyed a leisurely cruise back with the wind at our backs until we were over taken by a shiny narrow boat that was charging for the first lock as the lock keepers don’t come on duty tomorrow until 11.00. We had been going to moor up below the lock but Paul opened Third Time Lucky’s engine up and gave chase. We couldn’t keep up and lost sight of them but the lock keeper spied us as the gates opened so she waited for us. 



The wreck

We moored at the top with the other narrow boat behind a sunken wreck. We walked Lottie across a steep path up to the Trent and Mersey Canal that ran parallel, though on a higher level. Boy was it narrow after the river. Back at the lock we found a list of countries that had sent ships along the Weaver. What a sad reminder of its noble shipping past.

To Winsford Flash




interesting old sea faring boat

We cruised  to the top of the Winsford Flash as the barometer rose to very dry. It was a treat to go through the locks with all the work done by the cheerful lock keepers.

We passed lots of salt works. The factories were large and ugly but the salt was sculpted into intricate shapes and sparkled various shades of pink and coral. One heap looked like a pyramid with the top cut off and another like a heap of giant flowers.

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Tons of sand

On reaching Winsford flash Paul turned the boat as there were warning signs about shallow water but the hotel boat passed us and headed onto the flash. He couldn't have gone far on it though as he soon caught us up when we moored up.





Heron on lookout

 Lottie went crazy on her walk, running through the soft peaty bogs and getting plastered in black gloop. She met 2 dogs and showed off her running skills, keeping ahead easily, even hurdling the dogs when they got in her way.  Fortunately she then paddled in the river to cool off and cleaned herself up saving us a difficult job.

Later in the afternoon we passed the Anderton Lift and headed towards the next lock. The river was very quiet and felt more like a lake as it was calm with almost no flow. We only saw a couple of boats moving all day. 



Cormorant taking off

I was fortunate to see a cormorant catch a fish and shortly afterwards a heron also caught one but Paul missed the action on the camera. The river seems very healthy with lots of wild birds on it.






The Anderton Boat Lift





Holding tanks at the top of the lift

We didn’t cruise far in the morning but we took on diesel, changed our gas bottle and filled with water. Then we cruised to the Anderton boat lift, what an amazing sight it is considering when it was built. it was restored and came back into service 9 years ago.We were given a passage for 1.30. Lottie thought we had gone into a lock and wanted to get out of the cassion to work it but a tripe stick soon persuaded her to stay on the boat.



Lottie watching the boat descend




Almost at the bottom

What a puzzled expression her face had when she realised we were gliding down the 50 feet to the River Weaver.

We had a lovely afternoon on the river enjoying the natural beauty of the banks and reed beds. At last we enjoyed sunshine, and the wind became gentle. As we approached Northwich the giant swing bridge beeped and started opening even though we were low enough to cruise under it. The guy was doing his routine safety check. We moored up after a short cruise to shop in Northwich. There was one gap left on the moorings but a kind boater paced out the gap for us and we fitted snugly. At these times i'm glad we have a 40 foot boat.  It was a long walk to the shops but it was interesting to look at the swing bridge, the biggest I've seen. We were cheered as the barometer climbed from change to fair as tomorrow we explore up the river to Winsford.

Wintery weather

Paired locks on the Cheshire flight

We left our mooring in overcast drizzle. It soon stopped and sunshine cheered us up, but the wind added chill. One of the paired locks was extremely narrow but we couldn’t use the slightly wider chamber as the gate had something jammed in it. I let the water out slowly and Paul eased the boat through the bulge in the lock walls.

Deep lock chambers

We found a quiet mooring to stop midday but after we moved off there was nowhere to stop. The wind got stiffer and colder making steering difficult as the boat side acted as a sail pushing us side wards. A noisy road appeared and ran alongside the canal. it was busy with heavy lorries but the end we moored in Middlewich in front of the locks against the main road. It was noisy but the road became quieter as the evening progressed. We were too tired to care.

Fighting the wind

We moved off in the dry with rain threatening. We flew down the 4 locks, thrust along by willing hands from the boats coming up towards us. The rain started in the 4^th lock but we soon found moorings just as it lashed down. Lots of poor people were still locking  and would have to carry on but it was good timing for us. During the rain Paul completed the repairs on the chimney from inside the boat.
 

Canada geese

After lunch we cruised on but the wind got colder and stronger, feeling more like March. However the Canada Geese seemed unaffected by the stiff wind. We stopped at the first moorings we could find at the Salt factory to get inside and warm up, yet this is Summer. We only cruised 3.75 hours but we did good lock miles.

bathroom blues



Harecastle Tunnel with Brindley's old tunnel on the left

Orange Water

Paul decided we would need a pump out today as as our toilet system was nearly full. We couldn’t see how to reach the one in Stone as there were loads of boats moored in the way. Paul shrugged and we locked out of the town. We ended up in Stoke having had no trouble at the locks just as the services finished. the guy at the boat yard offered to come over and service the boat at 8.30 so we moored on the service pontoon for the night. Although it was the middle of Stoke we had a peaceful night with no sign of vandalism or trouble as the pump out guy had assured us. We were even insulated from the traffic by a steep bank of trees.

Next morning as we were pumped out 2 hire boats arrived. They had spent the night in the marina while we moored free on the pontoon.

Old crane to the north of Harecastle Tunnel

cows by canal

Afterwards we had a short cruise to the Harecastle tunnel where we joined the queue. The boat behind flew round the corner, lost control and rammed the bank to avoid hitting us. No he wasn’t a hirer but a boater with 20 years experience. He must have been asleep at the tiller! We only waited a few minutes then went through the tunnel, the middle boat of 5. It was cold, noisy as huge fans blew fresh air pat us and the middle section grew lower and lower. We emerged to sun on the other side and the water was deep orange in colour due to the presence of iron ore. We enjoyed the start of the Cheshire locks which were spread out with beautiful rolling scenery around, wooded hills and fields of cows with calves. The first few locks were paired, the lock beams almost touching, but afterwards some were disused and one had completely vanished under a new road. The water soon returned to its normal colour. Lottie liked the mooring that evening, as rabbits roamed free on the common land at Rode Heath.

Cruising familiar water



Giant Hogweed

We started out the same time as everyone else, five narrow boats heading for the 1^st lock with us in the middle. We soon passed black spot piglets playing in the sun, squealing and jumping over each other. It’s good to see an old breed thriving.
Minutes later a farmer drove some lively calves along the tow path as we queued for Colwich lock. He explained they had slipped out of their field some 2 miles away and had led him a lively dance. 1 was still missing. Lottie took exception to calves on the towpath and barked at them rudely to inform them they should stay in their field. It was just like a scene from my book the intrepid pony escapes.

Cygnets calling for dinner

Soon we passed a magnificent giant hogweed plant which was as tall as a tree. Swifts skimmed the canal for flies and a kestrel hunted in a nearby field diving from high the find its prey. Damselflies, mostly neon blue but some bright red visited our boat hoping it was a giant flower. They were disappointed. Swans and cygnets came calling for dinner when we were moored up at Stone. They knocked at the window with their beaks as if to say come out and feed us. I fed them swan feed as too much bread isn't good for them.